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On the headland east of Manns Point and the Parramatta River (see Birchgrove) lies this pleasant park, site of Aboriginal rock art and bushwalking trails. It offers stunning views across the harbour to Goat Island and Balmain (see Balmain East). BBQ facilities are available, and it’s easily accessible from Waverton Railway Station. The park is cradled by the dormitory suburbs of Waverton and Wollstoncraft, the latter named after Edward Wollstoncraft, nephew of Mary Wollstoncraft, the author of Rights of Women . Edward was an enterprising local merchant who operated a shipping business with his partner Alexander Berry, after whom the bay to the east was named.

East of Berry’s Bay, this cove has great views of the Opera House framed by the Harbour Bridge. It was named after George Lavender, a boatswain who married the daughter of his neighbour Billy Blue (see William “Billy” Blue). In 1817 Governor Macquarie granted Billy Blue 32 ha (80 acres) west of Lavender Bay. In 1830, at the age of 82, Billy Blue established a ferry service from Dawes Point to the headland that now bears his name. There is a small reserve at its end, but the point is dominated by a Harry Seidler (see Rose Seidler House) apartment building that many consider an eyesore.

Nestled beneath the Harbour Bridge is a tiny suburb best known for its fun fair: Luna Park, which is based on New York’s Coney Island. Luna Park’s famous laughing clown face set between two Art Deco towers, although remodelled several times over the years, has continuously overlooked the harbour since 1935. The park is built upon a former Sydney Harbour Bridge construction wharf and workshops. Beside the park is the North Sydney Olympic Pool which opened in 1936.

In 1932 John Bradfield (see Bradfield Park) predicted that, with the opening of the Harbour Bridge, North Sydney and Mosman would merge into a second Brooklyn. He was certainly on the money regarding North Sydney’s development, as indicated by the area’s many skyscrapers. Sydney’s second CBD is home to major Australian banking, finance and insurance giants. Its attractions include a small museum, chapel and tomb dedicated to the memory and works of Australia’s only saint, Mary MacKillop (1842–1909), who was beatified in 1995.

Kirribilli is Australia’s most densely populated suburb. But it is better known for two residences that occupy its tip: Admiralty House (1843) and neighbouring Kirribilli House (1855). The former was the residence of the Commander of the British Royal Navy, and is now the Sydney residence of the Governor General, the Queen’s representative in Australia. The latter is the official Sydney residence of the Australian Prime Minister. The Gothic Kirribilli House has one of the best views in Australia.

Neutral Bay was named by Governor Phillip, who ordered that all foreign ships entering Sydney Harbour anchor here. The area includes Careening Cove, so named because ships were laid on their sides here for refitting. Now this tranquil bay is home to the Royal Sydney Yacht Squadron, the Ensemble Theatre, and the Sydney Flying Squadron. May Gibbs’ charming residence, Nutcote, can be found on the eastern slope. Further east is Cremorne, a long, narrow peninsula with a popular harbourside reserve.

Mosman Bay was named after Archibald Mosman, who established a whaling business nearby in 1830. The suburb is best known for Taronga Park Zoo and Bradleys Head (see Bradleys Head). Lieutenant William Bradley arrived with the First Fleet and later served in the Napoleonic Wars, before he was found guilty of fraud and exiled to France in 1814. Clifton Gardens and Middle Head, a former military reserve, are popular destinations in Mosman. Balmoral has three pleasant beaches, including the tiny Chinaman’s Beach.

The entrance to the northern arm of the harbour is marked by Middle Head and Dobroyd Head. Just north of Chinaman’s Beach is the Spit Bridge, which can be raised to allow boats to pass beneath. Castlecrag, northwest of the Spit Bridge, was home for a period to Walter Burley Griffin (1876–1937), the US architect who designed Australia’s capital, Canberra. Much of Middle Harbour’s shoreline is parkland, and the calm waters are perfect for kayaking. To the north is Garigal National Park.

This peninsula was so named because Governor Phillip felt the Aborigines he met here in 1788 were “manly”. In 1853, businessman Henry Smith purchased 121 ha (300 acres) on the formerly remote peninsula, and set about creating a seaside pleasure resort similar to Brighton in England. Today, Manly is a very popular and lively destination. Home to lovely beaches, it also features attractions such as Oceanworld and October’s Manly Jazz Festival (see Manly International Jazz Festival). Catch the enjoyable harbour ferry ride from Circular Quay and make a full day of it (see Manly Beach).

Detail on New Brighton Hotel

A 10-km (6-mile) walk, one of Sydney’s best, traces North Harbour’s shoreline from Manly to the Spit Bridge. The walk passes by coastal heathlands, flat sandy beaches and sub-tropical rainforest. Highlights on the way include pretty Forty Baskets Beach, rugged Dobroyd Head, the 1911 Grotto Point Lighthouse, Clontarf Beach, and Aboriginal shell middens east of the Spit Bridge. The NPWS (see The Islands) offers a useful map of the route, available at the NPWS and Manly Visitor Information Centres.

Walking along Manly Beach