The eastern part of Toronto is a region of contrasts. Some of the city’s grandest old mansions remain along the stately streets of Jarvis and Sherbourne, though many of these homes were abandoned for years and have only in the past few decades undergone renovation and gentrification. The same is true of Cabbagetown, originally a working-class Irish immigrant neighborhood, where Victorian rowhouses and cottages have been transformed into an upscale neighborhood of urban professionals. There are many historic sights in the area and a vibrant streetlife throughout Toronto’s east side, thanks to the lively gay village along Church Street, the Greek and Macedonian enclave of The Danforth, and the fresh-food destination of St. Lawrence Market. To the south, a complex of Victorian buildings has been converted into the Distillery Historic District, one of the city’s newest shopping and entertainment destinations.
The construction of the Prince Edward Viaduct is featured in Michael Ondaatje’s 1987 bestselling novel In the Skin of a Lion-
Morning
Begin your day with an espresso at Jet Fuel, 519 Parliament St. After your caffeine jolt, turn right and walk north to Wellesley St, then turn right again and walking east to take in the charming Victorian architecture. Note the strange animal and face carvings on No. 314. Explore the lanes running northward, including Wellesley Cottages, a courtyard tucked behind the street with seven gabled cottages. As you come to the end of Wellesley St, spend a few moments wandering through Wellesley Park, enjoying the view across the Don Valley.
Backtrack to Wellesley St and turn left onto Sumach St, its charming houses classic Cabbagetown. Note Second Empire-style No. 420–422, built in 1886, and the English cottage style of Nos. 404–408. Turn left at Winchester St; Necropolis Cemetery, Toronto’s oldest non-denominational graveyard, will be on the left. Peek into the chapel to admire the stained-glass windows.
Afternoon
For lunch, head back along Winchester St to Parliament St turning left to Carlton St, where you’ll find the Town Grill at No. 243.
After lunch, continue to meander the area’s compact streets – Metcalfe, Salisbury, and Sackville – before walking east to Riverdale Park and its Riverdale Farm . Across the street from the park’s northwest corner is cute Winchester Café, dispensing refreshments through a side window.
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A cheese lover’s paradise, in South Market, selling every kind of cheese imaginable, from French cantal to the most pungent of blues. Good raw-milk cheese selection.
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This large park embodies the contradictions of the downtown-eastside: It is both grand and gritty. Best explored during the day, the gardens, which first opened in 1860, contain a delightful glass-and-metal conservatory complex consisting of six greenhouses, each with a different climate zone, built in 1910. Inside, the exuberant displays of seasonal and permanent greenery and flowers delight the senses.
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Audiophiles lust after the high-end components sold here. Owner and sound-guru Rob will also give you a square deal on the used equipment.
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Candlelight and soft music combine with a good drinks list and inspired food served in small portions, tapas style.
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Beer is taken seriously here with an enormous selection, a beer school, and Wednesday happy-hour tastings. Many menu items incorporate beers too.
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This friendly pub, popular with locals, offers beers on tap, tasty food such as burgers and Montreal smoked meat on a bun, billiard tables, and a great patio.
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The elegant atmosphere – zinc bar, banquettes, large mirrors – matches the classic French bistro fare.
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Lively street action is part of the charm of market Saturdays, as buskers entertain and craftspeople ply their wares outside both the north and south buildings.
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One of Toronto’s earliest subdivisions, dating to the 1840s, this district remained a working-class community well into the 1970s. Many of the cottages and Victorian homes have since been renovated, and it is now an upscale residential enclave that makes for a pleasant stroll. On the east side is Riverdale Park and its delightful Riverdale Farm (see Riverdale Farm). Across the street, on the grounds of the Necropolis Cemetery, is a chapel built in 1872, a Gothic Revival treasure. At the north end of Cabbagetown, St. James Cemetery, Toronto’s oldest, has many beautiful crypts (see Cabbagetown).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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