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Enter from the west to pass under Baccio d’Agnolo’s Mannerist Palazzo Campana gate (1539). The Duomo features a Giambologna/Pietro Tacca bronze crucifix and, in Mino da Fiesole’s tabernacle, a nail said to be from Christ’s cross. Palazzo Pretorio’s archaeological museum is most interesting for the 1920s political graffiti scrawled on this former prison’s inner walls by imprisoned Communists. The (intentionally) sgraffito-covered façade of Palazzo dei Priori hides a small museum of Sienese paintings.

Men’s and women’s designer fashion (Armani, Gucci, Prada, Versace) plus lesser-known, more affordable labels.

Cortona is the quintessential Tuscan hill town with its Etruscan tombs, medieval alleys, Renaissance art and excellent restaurants.

Tuscany in miniature: medieval atmosphere, first-class art, sweeping views, handcrafted ceramics and fine wines.

This Etruscan settlement above the Chiana Valley is a trove of ancient tombs and Renaissance art. Stony buildings, steep streets and interlocked piazze characterize the centre. The upper half of Cortona has a sanctuary, the 16th-century Medici fortress, numerous gardens and little-known lookouts.

This hotchpotch collection preserves Etruscan finds as well as Renaissance and Baroque paintings, a few Egyptian artifacts, decorative arts, and works by the local Futurist Gino Severini.

The first Medici to gain the title grand duke was created Duke at the age of 17, when the first primary Medici line petered out. He conquered Siena, built a port (Livorno) and ruled judiciously but with something of an iron fist.

Adroitly managed his family fortune, political clout and personal image to become the de facto ruler of Florence. Each time he was exiled or imprisoned by rivals, popular sentiment brought him back to power.

Small roundels of bread, toasted, brushed with olive oil, and garnished with a number of toppings. The most popular toppings are cubed tomatoes, or fegatini , a chunky fresh pâté of chicken livers, capers, onions and a bit of anchovy.