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Michelangelo’s proud David (1501–4) stands pensively at the end of a corridor lined by the artist’s Slaves . The plaster casts crowding one long room hint that this is still a fine arts academy (the statues’ black “pimples” are reference points to help students copy the works). (see Florence’s Accademia)

Another showcase for alabaster workers who are too busy to maintain their own sales outlets.

The top hotel in Tuscany’s most exclusive coastal resort. It has large, tasteful rooms, a private beach with boats and canoes, beauty spa, swimming pool in the park, weekend candlelit dinners on the lawn and access to a neighbouring golf course.

One of Italy’s top restaurants, with an elegant, blue-and-white Neo-classical dining room and a menu rich in seafood.

The Serchio River Valley north of Lucca’s plain is bounded on the east by the Apuan Alps, which are home to the Grotta del Vento (Cave of the Winds). To the west are the wilds of the Garfagnana Mountains. Stopping points in the region include Borgo a Mozzano, which consists of an inn and the lithe Ponte del Diavolo bridge. In legend, this was built by the Devil in exchange for the first soul to cross it (villagers sent a dog).

Today virtually forgotten, in the 19th century Bagni di Lucca was one of Europe’s most fashionable spas (all the English Romantic poets came). The world’s first casino opened here in 1837.

Barga’s white Duomo has a marvellously detailed 13th-century pulpit carved by Guido da Como. The Este dukes once owned the 14th-century fortress of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, and installed the poet Ludovico Ariosto as commander and toll-taker.

It took Ghiberti many years (1425–52) to complete 10 gilded bronze panels of Old Testament scenes on the Baptistry’s east doors (now copies; originals in the Museo dell’Opera).

Florence makes the world’s best ice cream, a milk-and egg-yolk based frozen snack much denser and tastier than the packaged, air-fluffed “ice cream” made outside Italy. Make sure it’s produzione propria (home-made).

Don’t over-pack your itinerary. Take time to enjoy the ice cream instead.

Greatest Mannerist sculptor. Broke with tradition to create statues that require 360-degree viewing to appreciate.

The last Medici ruler was an obese sensualist who rarely stirred from bed, where he frequently cavorted with nubile young men. Occasionally he ventured forth to prove he was alive, guzzling wine inside his carriage and leaning out only to vomit on his subjects. Unsurprisingly, his death was unmourned, and with his demise the Grand Ducal title passed to the Austrian Lorraines.