traveldk.com

More expressive, colourful and realistic than Byzantine. Flowing lines and dramatic gestures (13th–14th centuries).

The only decent lodging in Livorno is right on the harbourfront, and its best rooms overlook Pietro Tacca’s Monument of the Four Moors and the busy port beyond. Guest rooms are well-appointed, if uninspired, and there’s a small fitness centre and spa.

To most aficionados, the only place to stay in Montecatini. A truly grand villa, set amid five acres of wooded grounds in the centre of town. It sports a frescoed restaurant, pool and exercise room, and spacious rooms.

An 18th-century villa surrounded by apartments sleeping 2–4 people. Guided horse rides are available and the nature reserves are close by. There’s also a pool and tennis courts. Three nights minimum.

Grubby Grosseto lacks real charm, but its Museo Civico Archeologico e d’Arte della Maremma is a must for Etruscan lovers. Many of the more portable finds from the Maremma are housed here, along with works of art from city churches, including Guido da Siena’s 13th-century Last Judgement and a Sassetta Madonna of the Cherries . The 13th-century church of San Francesco has fresco fragments and a high altar Crucifix (1285) attributed to Duccio.

Former saddlemaker Guccio Gucci opened this leather-goods shop in 1904. The interlocking Gs are gone, but the quality remains high.

Though lacking the full suite of amenities at the Excelsior and the fine setting of the San Michele, the Helvetia still feels posher than either. Also, it is the most central of Florence’s luxury inns.

Tourist office brochures lay out a dozen hikes from 90 mins to all day. The most rewarding is up (or down; you may ride the cable car one way) the Monte Capenne, past Sanctuario di San Cerbone church.

Guided rides from an Orbetello lagoon base. Moonlit rides June to September.