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Prosciutto hanging from the rafters and communal seating. All you can eat (and drink) of Tuscan stand-bys.

This is the archetypal Tuscan trattoria. You have all the elements: communal tables under prosciutto hamhocks hanging from beams, a cornucopia of appetizers and pastas, platters piled with roast meats, desserts, grappa, and endless wine, all for under 25 euros. The drawback is that there is always a crowd at the door.

Chain of stationery stores specializing in marbled paper and leather-bound blank books.

An oasis of luxury built in 1964 on a particularly wild and scenic bit of coast. Accommodation consists of cottages scattered through the pine, cypress and olive woods, and amenities include a piano bar, gym, beauty spa, tennis courts, seawater pool and waterskiing.

One of Tuscany’s best seafood restaurants.

Crowded pizza parlour also serving tasty Neapolitan pasta dishes. Expect a wait even with reservations.

The Tuscans are great cooks, but they are not known for great pizza-making skills when compared with chefs in other parts of Italy. That is why this noisy joint, which is run by a genuine Neapolitan pizzaiuolo (pizza-maker), is always packed. Even if you have made a reservation, you will usually have to wait.

The only hotel within Massa’s walls is just 12 years old. A comfortable inn of Liberty-style furnishings, modern baths and elegant touches such as Persian carpets in the halls.

A young-spirited place, where Domenico adds creative touches to local ingredients and Valeria suggests accompanying wines.

Try the hearty cinghiale alla Volterrana (wild boar with black olives) in this 19th-century converted mill.