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Morning
Start with Pistoia and the stupendous Gothic frescoes inside Capella del Tau (incredibly, a private owner in the 16th century whitewashed over them). Go down to zebra-striped San Giovanni Fuoricivitas for a Romanesque feast.
Pop next door into what was once part of the church but now houses the Café Valiani for flaky croissants and cappuccino. Don’t dawdle: you need time for the Duomo (closes at noon, (see Churches Outside Florence)) then Sant’Andrea (closes 12:30). Head back to the centre by way of Ospedale del Ceppo and its terracotta reliefs. Join the locals for a hearty lunch at workaday Lo Storno trattoria just off the picturesque market square where medieval-style second storeys project over the ground floors of the buildings.
Afternoon
From Pistoia, it’s a quick drive to Prato . Stop first at Palazzo Daitini’s frescoes (the St Christopher by the door was a common feature, believed to help protect those leaving the house) to pay your respects to the medieval Merchant of Prato, who inscribed his account ledgers “For God and Profit”.
Do the Duomo (see Churches Outside Florence) and, if you have time, the adjacent Museo del’Opera del Duomo and the Palazzo Pretorio. Grab a bag of cantucci at Antonio Mattei and clamber onto the broken ramparts of Castello dell’Imperatore for a nice view of Santa Maria delle Carceri (1485–1506), a fine High Renaissance church.
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