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The Antinori Marquises have been making wine since 1385, producing more than 15 million bottles annually of some of Italy’s most highly ranked and consistently lauded wines. You can sample their vini at Florence’s Cantinetta Antinori (see Cantinetta Antinori).

The Falvo brothers were key in reviving the quality and raising the status of Vino Nobile in the 1990s. The huge estate also produces vintages made with Merlot and Cabernet, and one of Tuscany’s finest Vin Santoe. A classy show-room/free tasting bar is in Montepulciano.

Massive American-owned estate founded in 1978, producing scientifically perfect wines and a massive Brunello riserva . There’s a huge shop and enoteca and a small glass and wine museum.

A super-thick, juicy T-bone steak, best cut from snowy white Chiana cattle, simply brushed with olive oil and cracked pepper and grilled (medium-rare) over a wood fire. (A different cut is being used during the BSE scare.)

One of Italy’s most powerful, complex reds, best with red meat or game. 100 percent Sangiovese Grosso (the wine was perfected accidentally when a blight killed all but this grape).

“Ugly but good” cakes, slightly chewy in a crisp shell.

Livorno’s version of bouillabaisse meets pappa al pomodoro : a thin, pepperoncino - spiked tomato gruel poured over stale bread slices and a stew rich in fish and seafood. The exact recipe varies with the day’s market and chef’s whim, but usually finds a way of incorporating some tentacles.

Small, hard, half-moon almond biscuits – best from Prato – called biscotti outside Tuscany. Dip them in Vin Santo (a white dessert wine).

One of world’s oldest official wine areas (1716), near Prato. DOCG Chianti blend with Cabernet. Long-lived, balanced.

Michelangelo’s nephew’s house. Carvings by the master are on display.