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Though a neighbour, Dante didn’t live here, but the house is filled with documents recreating medieval Florence. His beloved Beatrice is buried in the tiny church across the street.

The estate that invented modern Chianti Classico is back in the Ricasoli family after years under Seagram’s, and the wines have improved vastly. “Iron Baron” Bettino Ricasoli, Italy’s second prime minister, perfected the formula here.

Andrea del Castagno’s dramatic 1450 Last Supper . Note the turbulent marble panel behind the heads of Jesus and Judas.

Italy’s most famous, oftmaligned red.

Since the 18th century the most structured and highest quality Chianti.

Small roundels of bread, toasted, brushed with olive oil, and garnished with a number of toppings. The most popular toppings are cubed tomatoes, or fegatini , a chunky fresh pâté of chicken livers, capers, onions and a bit of anchovy.

Portoferraio may be bland, but boats can whisk you to secluded beaches on the northeast shore. The western coast has rocky shoals (good for snorkelling) and, south of Fetovaia, sandy beaches on tiny inlets.

The “Etruscan Coast” south of Livorno includes pine-shaded, sandy, semi-secluded Marina di Albarese and the sandy resort of San Vincenzo.

Pick up a map in town or at Sorano’s fortress, to explore the tombs and vie cave hidden in the countryside.

Tuscans are nicknamed mangiafagioli , bean-eaters, because of their love of the white cannellini beans. Cooked al dente (to a hard bite) like pasta, the beans are sometimes served simply dressed in fresh olive oil and cracked black pepper, but the best preparation is all’uccelleto , stewed with fresh tomatoes, sage, garlic cloves, olive oil and pepper.