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Tuscany : History & Culture

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  • Granary-turned-church ringed with statues by Donatello, Ghiberti and Verrocchio (copies; the originals are in an upstairs museum). Orcagna designed the tabernacle to resemble a miniature cathedral containing a Madonna and Child (1348) by Bernardo Daddi.

  • Siena’s medieval town hall is a genteel brick palace. The rooms were so gorgeously decorated with early 14th-century art – including Simone Martini’s Maestà and Ambrogio Lorenzetti’s incomparable Allegory of Good and Bad Government – that they’ve been turned into a museum (see Siena’s Museo Civico).

  • Arnolfo di Cambio’s mighty town hall (1299–1302) is still Florence’s seat of government. Cosimo I hired Vasari to redecorate in the 1540s, frescoing a Medici marriage around Michelozzo’s 1453 courtyard and swathing the gargantuan Sala dei Cinquecento with an apotheosis of the Medici dynasty. Francesco I shut himself away from matters of state in his Studiolo to conduct scientific experiments.

  • Probably studied in Florence, possibly alongside Leonardo. Taught Raphael and Pinturicchio.

  • Siena’s half-moon of a public square is one of the loveliest piazze in all of Italy, its broad slope home to the biannual Palio horse race and an ever-changing cast of strollers, coffee-drinkers, readers and picnickers. So rich is it in sightseeing opportunities that it counts among Tuscany’s Top 10 (see Siena’s Campo & Palazzo Pubblico).

  • Florence’s public living room and outdoor sculpture gallery. Michelangelo called Ammannati’s Neptune fountain a “waste of good marble”. Lining the Palazzo Vecchio’s arringheria – the platform from which orators “harangued” the crowds – are copies of Donatello’s Marzocco (Florence’s leonine symbol) and Judith , and Michelangelo’s David . The only original, Bandinelli’s Hercules (1534), was derided by Cellini as a “sack of melons”. Orcagna’s lovely 14th-century Loggia dei Lanzi shelters Cellini’s masterpiece Perseus (1545) and Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women (1583).

  • Italy’s only perfectly planned Renaissance town centre was commissioned from Rossellino by Pope Pius II. The perimeter street offers views over the rumpled green, sheep-dotted landscape. The town’s many little shops specialize in Tuscan wines, honey and the best pecorino sheep’s milk cheese in all of Italy.

  • In the 15th century, Pope Pius II hired Rossellino to revamp his home village with an assemblage of buildings on the main square, including a retro-Gothic town hall, a palace for the bishop (housing the Museo Diocesano of paintings by Pietro Lorenzetti, Vecchietta and Bartolo di Fredi), a papal palace (great hanging gardens) and a Duomo (see Pienza’s Duomo). High Street Corso Rossellino is packed with wine and cheese shops.

  • Behind the Classical façade is a reinterpreted German Gothic building, the result of Piccolomini Pope Pius II’s interference in Rossellino’s initial plan to build the perfect Renaissance town.

  • Perfectly planned Renaissance town centre (see Pienza).

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