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Cosimo il Vecchio’s will saw that the sculptor never lacked for commissions; Donatello is buried near Cosimo in San Lorenzo.

The first fully Renaissance sculptor worked out perspective in sculpture well before painters got there. He cast the first free-standing nude and first equestrian statue since antiquity, and came up with the schiacciato technique, using etched perspective lines to create the illusion of great depth in a shallow relief.

The first undisputed masterpiece of the Sienese School was this Maestà (1311) by Duccio. It was paraded through the streets, and painting a Maestà became a rite of passage for Sienese artists.

(see The Duomo Group, Florence).

This massive Gothic cathedral complex is filled with art by such masters as Michelangelo, Pisano, Pinturicchio, Bernini, Duccio and Donatello. It qualifies as one of Tuscany’s Top 10 sights, and is fully covered on pages 26–7.

This modestly scaled resort island derives its name from Aethalia , the Greek word for the sparks of its busy iron forges. Portoferraio, where ferries arrive from Piombino, has two fortress/parks, Napoleon’s Villa dei Mulini (his Villa San Martino south of town is more interesting, however), and a small archaeological museum. Porto Azzuro was the island’s Spanish capital and is today a bustling resort that manages to retain something of the old fishing town. Hilltop Capoliveri has the best nightlife and evocative medieval alleyways. Ancient Marciana is a good hill town base for exploring the island’s western half.

The vaulted cellars of the massive 16th-century Medici fortress are filled with Italy’s national wine museum (though, since vintners send in cases only on a voluntary basis, it’s far from comprehensive). Everything is for sale, and a selection of bottles is opened daily so that you can sample Italy’s oenological bounty by the glass at small tables or outside on the terrace.

Marble quarries make the Apuan Alps above Carrara appear snow-capped year round. Fantiscritti has a museum of traditional stonecutting tools, which can be reached by following the Carrione River to Vara Bridge, a former rail link to the docks that was converted to road use in 1965.

Popular, hands-on grand duke who founded hospitals, gave poor girls dowries, promoted agriculture and hosted grand parties. He married Christine of Lorraine, whose family would inherit the grand ducal title.

This hilltop Etruscan settlement is a short ride from Florence on a No. 7 bus. The 11th-century cathedral was assembled using ancient Roman columns, and houses Renaissance sculptures by Giovanni della Robbia and Mino da Fiesole. The remains of a Roman theatre and baths are still used for summer concerts. The steep road up to San Francesco church, with its quiet cloisters and quirky missionary museum, passes a popular park, shaded by ilex and peppered with water-colourists reproducing its famous view of Florence.