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The Serchio River Valley north of Lucca’s plain is bounded on the east by the Apuan Alps, which are home to the Grotta del Vento (Cave of the Winds). To the west are the wilds of the Garfagnana Mountains. Stopping points in the region include Borgo a Mozzano, which consists of an inn and the lithe Ponte del Diavolo bridge. In legend, this was built by the Devil in exchange for the first soul to cross it (villagers sent a dog).

Today virtually forgotten, in the 19th century Bagni di Lucca was one of Europe’s most fashionable spas (all the English Romantic poets came). The world’s first casino opened here in 1837.

Barga’s white Duomo has a marvellously detailed 13th-century pulpit carved by Guido da Como. The Este dukes once owned the 14th-century fortress of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, and installed the poet Ludovico Ariosto as commander and toll-taker.

It took Ghiberti many years (1425–52) to complete 10 gilded bronze panels of Old Testament scenes on the Baptistry’s east doors (now copies; originals in the Museo dell’Opera).

Greatest Mannerist sculptor. Broke with tradition to create statues that require 360-degree viewing to appreciate.

The last Medici ruler was an obese sensualist who rarely stirred from bed, where he frequently cavorted with nubile young men. Occasionally he ventured forth to prove he was alive, guzzling wine inside his carriage and leaning out only to vomit on his subjects. Unsurprisingly, his death was unmourned, and with his demise the Grand Ducal title passed to the Austrian Lorraines.

Early Venetian master whose use of dark oils came from Leonardo. A great influence on the young Titian.

A shepherd boy who dragged painting from its static, Byzantine methodology and set it on the road to the Renaissance. He imbued his paintings with earthy reality, giving his figures bulk and expressiveness.

Giotto’s masterful altarpiece (1310) broke conventions by dressing the Virgin in normal clothes rather than stylized robes, with the Child perched on an actual lap rather than hovering.

Teacher of Giorgione and Titian, noted for his early use of oils and fluid style.

Founded the Medici fortune by making his family’s bank the bank for the papal Curia. He also served as head of the priori government and was a sponsor of Ghiberti’s Baptistry commission.

Grubby Grosseto lacks real charm, but its Museo Civico Archeologico e d’Arte della Maremma is a must for Etruscan lovers. Many of the more portable finds from the Maremma are housed here, along with works of art from city churches, including Guido da Siena’s 13th-century Last Judgement and a Sassetta Madonna of the Cherries . The 13th-century church of San Francesco has fresco fragments and a high altar Crucifix (1285) attributed to Duccio.