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Tuscany : Places to eat

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  • A family-run trattoria in a room with stone walls and hewn beams. This is Tuscan cooking the way Grandma used to make it (Grandma, incidentally, is in the kitchen).

  • A friendly tavern on the ground floor of a medieval tower-house. Try the beans and funghi (mushrooms).

  • Small cellar osteria in this fishing village/resort. The Maremmana food is excellent, balancing meat and seafood, and the gregarious owner carries a good tune.

  • This small upstairs room has tiled floors, romantic nooks and soft music. The cook combines Tuscan ingredients in sometimes unusual ways.

  • The softly lit rustic dining room has a pergola-shaded terrace with sea views. The owners’ native Liguria is evident in the cooking.

  • Dine in a softly lit brick-barreled vault. Like any good osteria, this one serves great platters of mixed cheeses and cured meats, along with a good selection of wines.

  • Remarkably cheap and no cover charge. The cucina povera (“poor people’s cuisine”) dishes and great desserts change daily.

  • This ancient converted pharmacy offers the best traditional cuisine and friendliest service in town.

  • Tiny osteria with great mixed platters of pecorino cheese and salamis and a secret-family-recipe salad dressing.

  • A refined little wine bar with good snacks, conveniently situated just across the square from the Pitti Palace.

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