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Crowded pizza parlour also serving tasty Neapolitan pasta dishes. Expect a wait even with reservations.

The Tuscans are great cooks, but they are not known for great pizza-making skills when compared with chefs in other parts of Italy. That is why this noisy joint, which is run by a genuine Neapolitan pizzaiuolo (pizza-maker), is always packed. Even if you have made a reservation, you will usually have to wait.

A young-spirited place, where Domenico adds creative touches to local ingredients and Valeria suggests accompanying wines.

Try the hearty cinghiale alla Volterrana (wild boar with black olives) in this 19th-century converted mill.

This establishment is a lowkey, jazzy wine bar situated in the Oltrarno district.

The best dining room in Portoferraio, one street up from the harbourside quay, with a plant-enclosed awning to catch the breezes. Enjoy typical Elban dishes such as spaghetti alla bottarga (with dried tuna roe).

Mario de Fillipis’s family has run this Arezzo culinary landmark in the basement of a 14th-century palazzo for over 70 years. The dishes are solidly traditional Tuscan – try the saporita del buonconte , a medieval soldier’s stew of assorted meats and leftovers. The portions are wonderfully generous.

Very friendly cellar restaurant; generous portions.

The best food in Lucca since 1782. Here you will find a ramble of rooms hung with old kitchen implements and musical instruments. You can also experience the friendliest professional welcome of any fine restaurant in Tuscany, and, of course, excellent Lucchese cooking.

The classy but friendly service and superlative food make this Lucca’s top restaurant by far.