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Tuscany : Places to stay

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  • Native Roberto and his wife Silvie (formerly a Parisian art dealer) are your hosts at this old countryside smallholding of seven rustic rooms. Unlike most agriturismi , you dine with the hosts and other guests at a long table.

  • Luxury rooms and an excellent restaurant (see II Falconiere, Cortona) make for a perfect countryside retreat. Just a 15-minute drive from Cortona, yet immersed in the greenery of olives and vines. And a full complement of amenities are at hand.

  • Pisa’s oldest hotel (opened 1839) has had Ruskin and Roosevelt as guests. A few rooms occupy the 10th-century tower base, while some of the Arno-side doubles can be linked to form family suites.

  • The nuns of St Catharine run this simple but comfortable inn. Many rooms have great views across a narrow valley to the striped Duomo. There are plans to put phones in all rooms and A/C in a few in 2002, so prices may alter. There’s a TV lounge and pay phones in the common rooms.

  • Fourteen apartments, sleeping 2–7, in former peasant quarters around a fine vineyard villa. There’s also the chance to learn the secrets of Tuscan cooking. Minimum stay: three nights.

  • A medieval hamlet rebuilt after World War II. Now a select few can rent its 23 perfectly rusticated rooms and suites installed throughout the village. Guests gather around a fire in winter or the pool in summer.

  • The views from Fiesole are famous, but the panorama from the Bellosguardo hill above the Oltrarno is better, a close-up sweep of the Florence skyline from the gardens and pool of an evocatively medieval retreat. The central tower contains a suite featuring unsurpassed views in four directions.

  • While most rooms in this converted 1280 palazzo don’t have great views, the lofty terrace bar has an unbeatable panorama across Florence.

  • This was a residence in the 19th century of Tuscany’s Lorraine Grand Dukes. The rooms, a mix of old and modern decor, overlook the villa’s verdant park, which contains a pool and tennis court.

  • A 15th-century palazzo in the hills above Florence, a 15-minute drive from the centre. There are rural views from the 31 simple bedrooms. The gates shut at 10:30pm, though the sisters will reopen them to let you back in later if need be.

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