The Duomo Group, Florence
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Florence’s gorgeous cathedral offers two panoramic perches, one atop Giotto’s lithe and lovely belltower, the other at the summit of Brunelleschi’s robust and noble dome. The interior of the cathedral contains some Uccello frescoes but otherwise is oddly barren and less interesting than clambering up between the layers of the dome. The nearby Baptistry is also more rewarding with its glittering Byzantine mosaics and Gates of Paradise, while inside the Museo are statues by Michelangelo, Donatello, Ghirlandaio and Andrea Pisano.
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1. Duomo: Dome
The Duomo’s crossing was thought unspannable until Brunelleschi came up with this ingenious double shell construction in 1420. Forget the mediocre frescoes inside; the thrill is to climb up between the layers to the marble lantern at its peak.
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2. Baptistry: Gates of Paradise
Lorenzo Ghiberti’s gilded bronze panels (1425–53) showcase his mastery at depicting great depth in shallow relief. Michelangelo was reportedly so moved he proclaimed they would “grace the very gates of Paradise”, and the name stuck; the originals are housed in the Museo.
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3. Baptistry: Mosaics
The swathe of 13th-century mosaic panels tells stories from Genesis and the lives of Jesus, Joseph and St John the Baptist.
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4. Museo: Michelangelo’s Pietà
Michelangelo created three Pietàs , this middle one in 1548–55 before angrily attacking it with a hammer.
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5. Duomo: Campanile
Giotto designed only the lowest level of the “Lily of Florence”, which was continued by Andrea Pisano (who added statue niches) and finished by Francesco Talenti. It is 85 m (276 ft), or 414 steps, to the top.
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6. Duomo: Fresco of Giovanni Acuto
Master of perspective Paolo Uccello painted this trompe-l’oeil fresco (1436) of an equestrian statue as a memorial for John Hawkwood, an English condottiere (mercenary commander) long in Florence’s employ.
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7. Museo dell’Opera del Duomo: HabakkukOne
One of several prophets that Donatello carved for the campanile. Florentines nicknamed this one Lo Zuccone – “Pumpkinhead”.
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8. Duomo: New Sacristy
The bronze doors and glazed terracotta lunette are 15th-century works by Luca della Robbia. The interior, sheathed in wood inlay, was where Lorenzo de’ Medici took refuge after an assassination attempt in 1478.
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9. Museo dell’Opera del Duomo: Altar Front
This pile of silver and gilt statuary for the Baptistry took over 100 years to craft (1366– 1480), by Verrocchio, Antonio Pollaiuolo, Michelozzo and other sculptors.
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10. Baptistry: North Doors
Lorenzo Ghiberti won the 1401 competition to cast these 28 bronze panels, and spent 21 years creating what art historians consider the first proper Renaissance work.
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