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Tuscany : Lucca

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Lucca

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  • Lucca is a genteel city of opera and olive oil, Romanesque churches and hidden palace gardens. Its historic centre is contained within massive 16th-century redbrick bastions. The street plan first laid down by the Romans is little altered – in the Middle Ages the ancient amphitheatre was used as a foundation for houses. Composers Boccherini (1743–1805) and Giacomo Puccini (1858–1924) were born here, and are celebrated in concerts at the 19th-century Teatro del Giglio and in the sumptuous villas north of town.

Top 10 Sights
  • 1. Duomo

    The early 13th-century façade stacks Pisan-Romanesque arcades over a portico of Romanesque carvings. Inside are sculptures by 15th-century master Matteo Civitale, Ilaria’s tomb, Tintoretto’s Last Supper (1591), and the revered Volto Santo , supposedly carved by Nicodemus.

  • 2. San Michele in Foro

    Built atop the Roman Forum, San Michele’s striking Pisan-Romanesque arcades are stacked even higher than the Duomo’s. Inside are a Madonna and Child by Civitale, another by Andrea della Robbia, and a Filippo Lippi Saints . Composer Puccini was a chorister here.

  • 3. The Walls

    Chestnuts and umbrella pines shade the gravelly path atop Lucca’s remarkable ramparts (1544-1650). Locals love to stroll or bicycle this circuit for views down into palazzo gardens and out over the Apuan Alps.

  • 4. Tomb of Ilaria

    Jacopo della Quercia’s masterpiece (1405–7) in the Sacristy of the Duomo marries the medieval lying-in-state pose of town boss Paolo Guinigi’s young wife (she died at 26) with classical-inspired garlands and cherubs. Jacopo’s delicate chisel turned hard marble into soft cushions and captured Ilaria’s ethereal beauty.

  • 5. Piazza Anfiteatro

    Lucca’s Roman amphitheatre was long ago mined for building stone, but its oval remained as a base for medieval houses. It’s now a quiet piazza, with ancient arches embedded in house walls.

  • 6. Museo della San Frediano

    The façade glitters with Byzantine mosaics. Among its treasures are a carved Romanesque font and Amico Aspertini’s quirky fresco cycle (1508–9), the Miracles of San Frediano .

  • 7. Torre Guinigi

    The 14th-century palace of Lucca’s ruling family sprouts a 44-m (144-ft) tower, with stunning panoramas.

  • 8. Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi

    Riotous baroque palace interiors serve as a backdrop for Renaissance and Mannerist paintings by Pontormo, Bronzino, Beccafumi, Correggio, Sodoma and Luca Giordano.

  • 9. Museo Nazionale Guinigi

    This 15th-century villa houses a fine archaeology section of Iron Age, Ligurian and later Etruscan finds, decent Renaissance paintings, and 15th-century wood inlay.

  • 10. Santa Maria Forisportam

    Though the Pisan façade is 12th century, the interior is mostly 17th century, including two Guercino altarpieces and a pietre dure ciborium (inlaid stone vessel).

Practical Information
Genteel Antico Caffè di Simo, Via Fillungo 58, has catered for everyone from Puccini to Mascagni since 1846. Lucchesi are cyclists; there are several rental outfits on Piazza Santa Maria where you can pick one up for a day. Tourist Office: Piazza Santa Maria 35, Telephone 0583 91 991 www.turislucca.com Duomo open daily; admission charge for Tomb of Ilaria San Frediano open daily Torre Guinigi open daily; admission charge Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi closed Mon admission charge Museo Nazionale Guinigi closed 9am –7pm Mon; admission charge
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