Lucca
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Lucca is a genteel city of opera and olive oil, Romanesque churches and hidden palace gardens. Its historic centre is contained within massive 16th-century redbrick bastions. The street plan first laid down by the Romans is little altered – in the Middle Ages the ancient amphitheatre was used as a foundation for houses. Composers Boccherini (1743–1805) and Giacomo Puccini (1858–1924) were born here, and are celebrated in concerts at the 19th-century Teatro del Giglio and in the sumptuous villas north of town.
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1. Duomo
The early 13th-century façade stacks Pisan-Romanesque arcades over a portico of Romanesque carvings. Inside are sculptures by 15th-century master Matteo Civitale, Ilaria’s tomb, Tintoretto’s Last Supper (1591), and the revered Volto Santo , supposedly carved by Nicodemus.
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2. San Michele in Foro
Built atop the Roman Forum, San Michele’s striking Pisan-Romanesque arcades are stacked even higher than the Duomo’s. Inside are a Madonna and Child by Civitale, another by Andrea della Robbia, and a Filippo Lippi Saints . Composer Puccini was a chorister here.
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3. The Walls
Chestnuts and umbrella pines shade the gravelly path atop Lucca’s remarkable ramparts (1544-1650). Locals love to stroll or bicycle this circuit for views down into palazzo gardens and out over the Apuan Alps.
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4. Tomb of Ilaria
Jacopo della Quercia’s masterpiece (1405–7) in the Sacristy of the Duomo marries the medieval lying-in-state pose of town boss Paolo Guinigi’s young wife (she died at 26) with classical-inspired garlands and cherubs. Jacopo’s delicate chisel turned hard marble into soft cushions and captured Ilaria’s ethereal beauty.
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5. Piazza Anfiteatro
Lucca’s Roman amphitheatre was long ago mined for building stone, but its oval remained as a base for medieval houses. It’s now a quiet piazza, with ancient arches embedded in house walls.
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6. Museo della San Frediano
The façade glitters with Byzantine mosaics. Among its treasures are a carved Romanesque font and Amico Aspertini’s quirky fresco cycle (1508–9), the Miracles of San Frediano .
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7. Torre Guinigi
The 14th-century palace of Lucca’s ruling family sprouts a 44-m (144-ft) tower, with stunning panoramas.
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8. Museo Nazionale di Palazzo Mansi
Riotous baroque palace interiors serve as a backdrop for Renaissance and Mannerist paintings by Pontormo, Bronzino, Beccafumi, Correggio, Sodoma and Luca Giordano.
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9. Museo Nazionale Guinigi
This 15th-century villa houses a fine archaeology section of Iron Age, Ligurian and later Etruscan finds, decent Renaissance paintings, and 15th-century wood inlay.
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10. Santa Maria Forisportam
Though the Pisan façade is 12th century, the interior is mostly 17th century, including two Guercino altarpieces and a pietre dure ciborium (inlaid stone vessel).
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