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Tuscany : Siena’s Duomo

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Siena’s Duomo

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  • Siena’s hulking Gothic cathedral is a treasure house of late Gothic sculpture, early Renaissance painting and Baroque design. The early architects dressed the edifice in striking Romanesque stripes, but the form is firmly Gothic, one of the best examples of the style in Italy. Equally fascinating are the Duomo’s outbuildings: the Baptistry, the Museo Metropolitana and the Santa Maria della Scala hospital across the square, where 1440s frescoes on the walls of the wards depict medieval hospital scenes.

    More on Siena For more Tuscan churches (see Churches in Florence)
Top 10 Features
  • 1. Pisano Pulpit

    Niccola Pisano’s son, Giovanni, and pupil Arnolfo di Cambio helped create this masterpiece of Gothic carving. Similar to Pisano pulpits in Pisa and Pistoia, this one depicts scenes from the Life of Christ.

  • 2. Piccolomini Library

    The library was built to house manuscripts belonging to the humanist Pope Pius II, born to Siena’s Piccolomini family. His life is celebrated in masterly frescoes (1507;) by Pinturicchio.

  • 3. Floor Panels

    All 59 panels are on show in early autumn (usually September), but some are visible all year. From 1372 to 1547 Siena’s top artists created these scenes, including Pinturicchio and Matteo di Giovanni, whose Massacre of the Innocents is masterful.

  • 4. Façade

    Giovanni Pisano designed the façade in 1285. His original time-worn statues, replaced with copies, are in the Museo Metropolitana. The glittering mosaics decorating the top half are by 19th-century Venetian craftsmen.

  • 5. Piccolomini Altar

    Andrea Bregno’s 1480 marble altar incorporates a Madonna and Child (1397–1400) by Jacopo della Quercia and four small statues of saints (1501–4) by the young Michelangelo.

  • 6. Chigi Chapel

    Baroque master Gian Lorenzo Bernini designed this chapel in 1659. The 13th-century Madonna del Volto altar-piece is Siena’s guardian: officials have placed the city keys before her in times of crisis, including during Nazi occupation, and Siena has always been delivered from harm.

  • 7. San Giovanni Chapel

    Giovanni di Stefano’s Renaissance baptismal chapel (1492) is decorated with Pinturicchio frescoes and a bronze St John the Baptist (1457) by an ageing Donatello.

  • 8. Duccio’s Stained Glass Window

    Italy’s earliest stained glass (1288) decorates the apse’s round window. Designed by Siena’s great early Gothic master Duccio di Buoninsegna, it underwent a thorough cleaning in the 1990s but should be back in place and gleaming by the time you visit.

  • 9. Choir

    The intarsia wood choir stalls are by various master craftsmen (1362–1570), the marble altar by Baldassare Peruzzi (1532) and the candelabras by Beccafumi, who also painted the apse fresco of the Ascension (1548–51).

  • 10. Belltower

    The campanile was added only in 1313, but the design is pure Romanesque dramatic black-and-white stripes.

Practical Information
Bini, Via dei Fusari 9–13, is a traditional bakery that has been producing heavenly Sienese cookies and sweets since 1943. Though the Duomo’s floor panels by Beccafumi are usually covered for protection, you can see his detailed preparatory drawings at the Pinacoteca (see Pinacoteca Nazionale). A cumulative ticket saves on admission to the Library, Museo Metropolitana and Baptistry. (Similar tickets cover other Siena sights.) All sights open daily: Duomo 7:30am–7:30pm Mon–Sat, 1:30pm–7:30pm Sun. Museo Mar–Sep: 9am–7:30pm; Oct: 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar: 9am–1:30pm. Library & Baptistry Nov–Mar: 10am–1pm, 2–5pm; Mar–Oct: 9am–7:30pm. Santa Maria della Scala 10:30am–6:30pm Admission charge €3 for Library
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