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Jeweller specializing in pieces from the 1920s to 1940s.

Cute boutique stuffed with wines, grappa and the health products of the Camáldolesi monks.

Cosy trattoria where you pay for what you drink of the house Chianti; the comfort food includes grifi e polenta (fatty veal stomach in polenta).

An Etruscan city, then ancient Roman pottery centre, Arezzo was later home to Guido Monaco, who invented modern musical notation in the 11th century, the poet Petrarch (1304–74) and Giorgio Vasari (1512–74), architect and author of the first art history text, Lives of the Artists .

The town’s centre is the broad, sloping Piazza Grande. The bell-tower, façade and medieval Calendar reliefs of the 12th-century Santa Maria della Pieve are Lombard-Romanesque style, but the altarpiece (1320) is pure Sienese Gothic courtesy of Pietro Loren-zetti. The Duomo has excellent stained-glass windows by French master Guillaume de Marcillat, and a fresco by Piero della Francesca. The 14th-century San Francesco is graced with Piero’s recently restored Legend of the True Cross (1448–66).

Italy’s top monthly antiques market. Over 600 dealers crowding the Piazza Grande and streets around it.

Part locals’ bar, part tourist shop hawking honey, preserves, biscuits, meats, spices and olive oils.

Lively café in a 14th-century palazzo right in the historic centre. It has a wonderful garden and terrace.

San Romulado established this Benedictine community in 1012, though the monastery is 15th century and the Vasari-decorated church 16th. One mile (1.5km) up a forest path lies the secluded hermitage (only men admitted), a tiny village of monkish cottages alongside a Baroque church.

Off Piazza del Municipio, Sant’Agostino has a trove of paintings, starring the 13th-century St Francis by Margheritone d’Arezzo, Gaddi’s Madonna and Child and Bartolomeo della Gatta’s St Francis Receiving the Stigmata .