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Northwestern Tuscany : Places to eat

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  • Since 1846 this has been the Lucca café of choice for musical and literary luminaries. The interiors are of the period, and the food and pastries are rather fine.

  • If you love fish, you’ll get large portions of it here.

  • Treat yourself – or a (very good) friend – to a present from this 1870 shop, selling classy Italian kitchenware ranging from contemporary porcelain to Alessi gadgets.

  • Look out over the Arno River and imbibe with the ghosts of Pisa’s intellectual élite at one of Italy’s oldest literary cafés – it opened in 1794.

  • Set in a pretty medieval town above Montecatini Terme, this has been a popular café since 1878. Allow sufficient time to sample the dozens of cocktails and exotic fruit gelati .

  • This atmospheric antique jewellers, set under frescoed vaults dating from 1800, also sells silver and watches.

  • Expect to pay restaurant prices at this trattoria. Excellent local dishes, such as a thick zuppa pisana ribollita . Try the tiramisu sundae.

  • Delightfully simple restaurant serving local cuisine. Fish dominates the menu – try the seafood fettucine or salt cod cooked with onion Livorno-style.

  • Da Leo is crowded with locals and buzzing with conversation. Try the zuppa ai cinque cereali , a soup filled with grains and legumes.

  • Lucca’s best wine shop is guaranteed to raise the hairs on your neck, with its hundreds of bottles crowded into small cellar rooms.

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