Garfagnana Region
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The Serchio River Valley north of Lucca’s plain is bounded on the east by the Apuan Alps, which are home to the Grotta del Vento (Cave of the Winds). To the west are the wilds of the Garfagnana Mountains. Stopping points in the region include Borgo a Mozzano, which consists of an inn and the lithe Ponte del Diavolo bridge. In legend, this was built by the Devil in exchange for the first soul to cross it (villagers sent a dog).
Today virtually forgotten, in the 19th century Bagni di Lucca was one of Europe’s most fashionable spas (all the English Romantic poets came). The world’s first casino opened here in 1837.
Barga’s white Duomo has a marvellously detailed 13th-century pulpit carved by Guido da Como. The Este dukes once owned the 14th-century fortress of Castelnuovo di Garfagnana, and installed the poet Ludovico Ariosto as commander and toll-taker.
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