Livorno
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Though Florence had already subjugated Pisa in the 16th century, Pisa’s silty harbour and unsure loyalties prompted Grand Duke Cosimo I to hire Buontalenti to build him a brand-new port from scratch. Livorno and Pisa have hated each other ever since.
Livorno is Tuscany’s second city, but short on sights when compared with, say, Pisa. There is just the somewhat wishfully named Venezia Nuova (“new Venice”) canal district, Pietro Tacca’s Mannerist masterpiece Monumento ai Quattro Mori (1623–6) at the port, and the Museo Civico Giovanni Fattori. The latter is devoted to native son Fattori, chief painter of the 19th-century Macchiaioli (Tuscan “impressionists”). Artist Amedeo Modigliani was also born here (but worked in Paris), as was composer Pietro Mascagni.
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