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Morning
Start with the Duomo group, especially if it’s winter, as the museum closes in the afternoon. Explore the Gothic nooks and Baroque crannies of the cathedral itself first, then pop across to Santa Maria della Scala.
Don’t skip the Museo Metropolitana (see Museo Metropolitana: Duccio’s Maestà) with works by Giovanni Pisano, Donatello and Duccio, plus fabulous views from the unfinished façade wall.
Descend the stairs to see the Baptistry before heading back around the other side of the Duomo for lunch at Antica Osteria da Divo .
Skip dessert so that you can pick it up at Bini pastry shop around the corner at Via dei Fusari 9–13 (don’t eat it just yet).
Afternoon
Stroll down Via di Città, where there are plenty of attractive shops on your way to II Campo (see Piazza del Campo). Either eat your pastries from Bini or grab an outdoor table at Bar II Palio, Piazza del Campo 47–9. Order a coffee or glass of wine, and drink in the ambience of one of the loveliest squares in Italy.
Head inside the Palazzo Pubblico for the Museo Civico displaying Siena’s greatest Gothic art. Exit the Campo on the north side to join the locals for a bracing espresso or Campari at famed café Nannini before continuing up Via Banchi di Sopra as part of the lively evening passeggiata .
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