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Morning
Start in the most dramatic of Maremma’s hill towns, Pitigliano , perusing the ultra-modern archaeological museum set in a fortified palazzo.
Head north to Sorano to visit the Fortezza degli Orsini (be there by 11am for a tour of its cellars), then poke around the abandoned, cliffside Via delle Rovine neighbourhood.
Ask at the Fortezza for a map of the Etruscan tombs and vie cave in the area, then take off towards Sovana, looking out for signs indicating Etruscan ruins (tomba, ippogeo, via cava ). Explore as many as you can before heading into Sovana for lunch.
Afternoon
Pop into Santa Maria Church and the 11th- to 13th-century Duomo, which preserves good carvings, some of which pre-date the Romanesque.
Follow the twisting road west through San Martino sul Fiora (more Etruscan roadside stops), then turn south to Saturnia. Skip the spa and head to the Cascate del Gorello open-air hot springs south of town to wallow in the natural whirlpools.
Go south to Manciano, from where you can reach coastal A12 highway: south to Tarquínia and Cerveteri (for great Etruscan tombs); or north to Monti dell’ Uccellina , the Etruscan Riviera beaches, or Piombino and ferries to Elba .
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