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Tuscany : Dining in Tuscany

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Top 10 Dining in Tuscany

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  • 1. Restaurant Types

    Traditionally, a ristorante is the most formal, and expensive, eatery; a trattoria a family-run, moderately-priced joint; an osteria anything from a simple trattoria to the equivalent of a pub with a few dishes or platters of mixed meats and cheeses along with wine.

  • 2. The Italian Meal

    Italian meals, especially dinners, are drawn-out affairs of two to four hours, with the courses listed below followed by an espresso and digestive liqueur (digestivo ) such as grappa . Breakfast is traditionally just an espresso or cappuccino with a croissant.

  • 3. Antipasto

    The appetizer course is most traditionally crostini and/or cured meats such as prosciutto and various salami. Also popular are panzanella , a summery salad of stale bread soaked in water and olive oil with tomatoes and garlic, and a caprese salad of tomatoes and fresh mozzarella.

  • 4. Primo

    The first course might be pasta, such as pappardelle alla lepre (with hare) or al cinghiale (see Pappardelle al Cinghiale), pici (hand-rolled spaghetti) and gnocchi (dumplings of ricotta and spinach, or potato). Soups (minestre ) include ribollita (see Ribollita), pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread pap), and zuppa di farro (emmer wheat). Risotto is made with seasonal vegetables.

  • 5. Secondo

    The main course. Meats include bistecca or manzo (beef), vitello (veal), agnello (mutton), pollo (chicken), maiale (pork), cinghiale (boar), coniglio (rabbit) and anatra (duck). They are usually simply grilled or roasted. A grigliata mista is a hearty mixed meat platter. Fish include branzino (bass), acciughe (ancho-vies), baccalà (cod), orata (bream), rombo (turbot), and sogliola (sole), usually grilled, roasted or all’acqua pazza (simmered in white wine and tomatoes).

  • 6. Dolce

    The sweet. Most popular are simple cantucci e vin santo (see Cantucci), though milk (panna cotta, latte portugese ) and egg (crème caramel) custards are popular, as is the tiramisù trifle and torta della nonna (see Torta della Nonna). The lighter macedonia is a diced fresh fruit cup.

  • 7. Wine

    No Italian meal is complete without red (rosso ) or white (bianco ) wine (vino ). Try a carafe (un litro ) or a half-carafe (mezzo litro ) of the usually excellent house wine (vino della casa ), or a bottle of Chianti, Brunello, Vino Nobile, Vernaccia or other fine Tuscan label (see Wine Houses). Italians temper their wine intake with equal amounts of water, either fizzy (gassata, frizzante ) or still (non-gassata or naturale ).

  • 8. Cover Charges and Tipping

    The pane e coperto cover charge is unavoidable. If the menu says “servizio incluso ” (or the waiter confirms so when you ask “E’ incluso il servizio? ”), service charge is built in, but it is still customary to round up the total. If it is not included, tip a discretionary 10–15 percent.

  • 9. Restaurant Etiquette

    Jacket and tie are rarely required. Service ranges from heartily chummy to restrained, but is usually professional. Waiters expect you to linger over your meal and won’t rush you (some tourists mistake this for slow service).

  • 10. Bars and Tavole Calde

    Most Italian bars – something between a pub and a café – serve morning cappuccino, espresso pick-me-ups throughout the day, and aperitifs (aperitivi ) in the evening usually along with simple sandwiches (panini ), pastries, and ice cream (gelato ). A tavola calda is a glorified bar with dishes steaming in trays behind a glass counter.

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