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When people imagine the archetypal Tuscan hill town, they are most likely to be picturing those in the area west of Siena. This is where San Gimignano thrusts its grey stone towers into blue skies, where Volterra’s medieval streets and alabaster artisans sit atop “a towering great bluff that gets all the winds and sees all the world” (D. H. Lawrence). More off the beaten track, the underrated Elsa Valley is home to other attractive hill towns, including Colle di Val d’Elsa, Certaldo and Castelfiorentino, which have virtually no crowds and offer a better glimpse of genuine Tuscan town life.
More on Tuscan hill towns More on San Gimignano More on Tuscan hill towns-
A family-run trattoria in a room with stone walls and hewn beams. This is Tuscan cooking the way Grandma used to make it (Grandma, incidentally, is in the kitchen).
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Dine in a softly lit brick-barreled vault. Like any good osteria, this one serves great platters of mixed cheeses and cured meats, along with a good selection of wines.
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This roofless 13th-century abbey and unique domed chapel on the hillside above are associated with the legend of a 12th-century soldier who plunged his sword into a stone to mark the end of his warrior ways.
Ambrogio Lorenzetti frescoes (1344) illustrate the holy vision that triggered the incident (see Miracles and Relics).
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The ultimate hill town ranks second among Tuscany’s overall Top 10 for its remarkable medieval stone “skyscrapers”, fine white wine and gorgeous Gothic frescoes.
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Frederick II built the imposing hilltop “Rocca” (great views) when this was the Tuscan stronghold of the German Holy Roman Emperors. The Duomo’s (rebuilt) Romanesque brick façade is studded with 13th-century North African majolica bowls.
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Since 1895 this has been the principal outlet for alabaster artisans without a shop of their own.
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Tacky souvenir shops line the Via S. Giovanni, selling medieval-style crossbows, swords and flails of varying degrees of realism. Most of them are small and very blunt, but some are fully functional.
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Visit the shop of this local sculptor who creates original bronzes as well as replicas of works in the museum.
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Suckling pigs roast on spits in the open fireplace; low stone vaults add to the atmosphere. Try the tris di primi sampler plate of three first courses.
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Morning
Start early in Monteriggioni which takes all of five minutes to walk from one end to the other, but take time to stop in the bar on the piazza for a cappuccino.
Drive on to Volterra starting with San Francesco and its amazing frescoes. On the Piazza dei Priori admire the Palazzo dei Priori (1208–57), the oldest Gothic town hall in Tuscany and the model for most others, including Florence’s Palazzo Vecchio. Tucked into an alcove on the square is the back door of the Duomo – dive inside. Head down Via dei Sarti for the Pinacoteca; continue on this street, which becomes Via di Sotto, lined with several good alabaster workshops, then Via Don Minzoni, where the Etruscan Museum lies.
Afternoon
One block back, on Piazza XX Settembre, Il Sacco Fiorentino is a good spot for a quick lunch before retrieving your car and continuing to San Gimignano getting there just as the tour buses are leaving (but before 4pm in winter, when things close early). Take a quick spin through the Collegiata frescoes before clambering up the Torre Grossa for perhaps the most beautiful panorama in Tuscany.
If you have time after descending – and after pausing at the Museo Civico – head to the other end of town for Sant’Agostino’s frescoes (by 6:30pm). Try to be up on the Rocca for sunset over the towers.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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