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Morning

Drink your fill of Tintoretto’s dynamic paintings at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco before wandering east to Campo San Polo . Coffee is a must in the square, either at one of the local bars or at the attractive Antica Birraria La Corte .

It’s not far from here to Rialto Market for late morning bargains of fresh produce, often nearing half price when stall-holders are in a hurry to shut up shop. If this has worked up an appetite, a Grand Canal-side lunch is worth consideration at this point. There is a string of eateries spread along the sun-blessed Riva del Vin, close to the foot of Rialto Bridge. Each displays live lobster and fish and multi-lingual menus. In winter diners sit in see-through “tents” so that views of the canal and the procession of boats are ensured.

Afternoon

Make your way north and explore the craft and gift shops, lace, scarf and T-shirt stalls along Ruga Rialto and the old red-light area of Rio Terrà Rampani .

Try to end up in pretty Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio for a pre-dinner drink at Al Prosecco wine bar (Campo S Giacomo dell’Orio, S Croce 1503 041 524 02 22 Closed Sun). Ask for the fruity red Refosco from Friuli and bocconcino con mortadella di cinghiale (bite-sized roll with wild boar slice).

Morning

From the Santa Maria Elisabetta ferry stop, either hire a bicycle or take buses B or V southwest along the lagoon edge for Malamocco. Wander through the peaceful village and over its bridge to the sea to take in the Adriatic and the impressive seawall. Then proceed with buses B or 11 through Alberoni and past the golf course for the vehicle ferry across the lagoon entrance. Get off at the second stop for San Pietro in Volta. Climb the high seawall for views of the sea, before turning lagoon-wards for the pastel-painted fishing settlement spread along the waterfront.

Have lunch at one of the trattorias (see Trattoria Scarso, Trattoria Da Nane) or a sandwich and glass of wine at one of the modest waterfront bars.

Afternoon

Further south the bus terminates at Pellestrina, a brightly painted fishing village flanked by an active shipyard. The passenger ferry to Chioggia is a beautiful half-hour cruise past mussel grounds punctuated with fisher huts perched on poles, via the Ca’ Roman landing stage, which provides access to a beach. Chioggia is a lovely town to explore, with its traffic-free piazza lined with old palazzos and countless fish restaurants.

Indulge in a pre-dinner drink and snack at one of the laidback cafés in the elegant Corso del Popolo.

Morning

Where better to begin than the inspiring arena, where wild animals once made a meal of gladiators as entertainment? Afterwards, relax in the sun with a creamy coffee at Liston 12 Caffè and dig into a freshly baked jam-filled croissant (Piazza Brà 12, Verona 045 803 1168)

A short stroll leads past the boutiques in traffic-free Via Mazzini, paved with pink-tinged local limestone embedded with ammonite fossils, to Casa di Giulietta to the right, or Piazza delle Erbe and its elegant palaces to the left.

Backtrack to Via Mazzini for lunch at Ristorante Greppia (Vicolo Samaritana 3, Verona 045 800 4577 Closed Mon) for bollito misto (nine types of boiled meat) served with a traditional peppery sauce.

Afternoon

To digest lunch, head over the Adige River via the ancient Ponte di Pietra to the Roman theatre on Via Regaste Redentore – well worth a visit even if you’re not in town for a summer evening performance. Then follow the river or walk back through town and west towards the medieval Ponte Scaligero, part of the adjoining castle. The triple-arched construction was blown up by the German army in World War II, then rebuilt brick by brick by the town.

The bridge leads to Castelvecchio for a timely apéritif with a glass of white Soave wine at any of the welcoming bars.