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However late in the evening, you can turn up here and count on live music, a good glass of wine and a crusty crostino topped with anchovies or cheese. On summer evenings locals row up to the waterside entrance.

The sky-blue vault studded with gold stars in this glorious Paduan chapel seems to hover over Giotto’s vibrant frescoes narrating the lives of Mary and Jesus. The Florentine artist (1266–1337) was summoned by Enrico Scrovegni to work on the chapel in 1305–06, to atone for the sins of his late father, a moneylender. Especially noteworthy of the 38 distinct scenes is the Last Judgment on the entrance wall, with ranks of helmeted, haloed and shield-bearing angels. Book well in advance and be prepared to wait in the “decontamination” chamber before the 15-minute visit.

Hat-lovers’ heaven, run by a charming couple with a 40-year passion for millinery in this lovely old-fashioned establishment. In great demand for stylish weddings in the country villas (see Veneto Villas).

Of their 20 properties available for holiday rents, this UK company includes a lovely apartment in Cannaregio complete with rooftop views. They also arrange for rental of private villas in the Veneto area.

Ignore the trinkets here and focus on the handcrafted models of bragozzo boats (see Bragozzo) painted in primary colours.

“Italy’s Molière” (1707–93) is celebrated at the Venetian theatre named in his honour (see Teatro Goldoni). Performances of his lively, witty comedies are staged in Venetian dialect and peopled with recognizable local characters. The prolific playwright moved to Paris and was rewarded with a royal pension, but he died destitute due to the French Revolution.

Modernist Scarpa (1906–78) admirably reorganized both the Accademia collection and the Querini Stampalia along Japanese-inspired lines.

An unmissable 10-day extravaganza that takes over the city as a countdown to Lent. The streets mill with costumed and masked local “nobility” or crazily attired visitors. It gets off to a flying start with the Volo della Colombina (flight of the dove), when either an acrobat or a cardboard dove is launched from the Campanile in Piazza San Marco, showering on-lookers with confetti. The grand finale is the explosive Mardi Gras.

Raw beef sliced thin and sprinkled with flakes of Parmesan cheese or rocket (arugula).