DK Travel : Venice

The uniquely romantic city of Venice was built entirely on water and has managed to survive into the 21st century without cars. Narrow alleyways and canals pass between sumptuous palaces and magnificent churches, colourful neighbourhood markets and quiet backwaters, unchanged for centuries. Few cities possess such an awesome line-up of sights for visitors.

For guided tours around Venice (see Guided Tours)

Epicentro

Alessi kettles, heart-shaped hot-water bottles, designer garlic presses – you’ll find the perfect gift here for friends who think they have everything.
Erbalido

A traditional herbalist who can advise on natural remedies for minor ailments.
Ernest Hemingway

This US Nobel Prize winner (1899–1961) experienced Italy first-hand as a volunteer ambulance driver during World War I (recounted in A Farewell to Arms ) and he was wounded near Treviso. Across the River and into the Trees is set in Harry’s Bar (see Harry’s Bar).
Europa & Regina

Sumptuous decor in this elegant historic palace right on the Grand Canal, close to the Piazza San Marco.
Eve (1962)

Joseph Losey’s black-and-white classic starring “temptress” Jeanne Moreau.
Everyone Says I Love You (1996)

Woody Allen literally runs in to Julia Roberts as they both jog through the city.
Ex Ospedale degli Incurabili

A cavernous, labyrinthine construction that takes up a lengthy stretch of the Zattere, this erstwhile hospital is undergoing vast renovations to adapt it for the Accademia Art Institute, scheduled to transfer here and leave the historic galleries room for expansion (see Accademia Galleries). The building dates from the 1500s, founded to shelter women with incurable venereal diseases, and later took in orphans and a trade school. Legend has it that St Francis Xavier, ordained in Venice, was sent to serve here with his companions on orders from Ignatius Loyola. More recently, it has served as a juvenile court.
Excelsior Palace

Crawling with stars and paparazzi during the summer Film Festival (see Vogalonga), this graceful mega-hotel has magnificent rooms right on the beach. A swimming pool and exclusive restaurants are also a feature.
Exploring Cannaregio

Morning

Begin the day with the Galleria Franchetti in the lovely Ca d’Oro , but leave plenty of time for the balconies which overlook the Grand Canal and the mosaics in the courtyard. Afterwards follow Strada Nova in the direction of the railway station to the Bottega del Caffè (Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 1903 041 714 232 Closed Sat pm & Sun) for the best coffee in Cannaregio. Only minutes away is the fascinating Jewish Ghetto , where you can take a guided tour to the many remaining synagogues in the area.

For a revitalising break, lunch at Hostaria alla Fontana is recommended (Fondamenta di Cannaregio, Cannaregio 1102 041 715 077 Closed Sun).

Afternoon

Wander up the canal towards Ponte dei Tre Archi and the Chiesa di San Giobbe. Return back over the bridge and make your way to Fondamenta della Sacca, which affords good views of the Dolomites in clear conditions. Many ways lead east from here, but try and take in the church of Madonna dell’Orto for the Tintoretto paintings, then Campo dei Mori .

Back on Strada Nova, an energetic young team awaits at La Cantina with a pre-dinner glass of wine from their north Italian range (Strada Nova, Cannaregio 3689 041 522 82 58 Closed Sun).
Exploring Dorsoduro

Morning

The Accademia Galleries (see Accademia Galleries) can be overwhelming, so focus on a selection of its glories, but don’t neglect the Carpaccios and Bellinis. After all that art, have a relaxing coffee watching the boats go by at Snack Bar Accademia Foscarini, a magical spot right at the foot of Accademia Bridge. (Rio Terrà Antonio Foscarini, Dorsoduro 878/C 041 522 72 81 Closed Tue).

Next, head off east for a leisurely stroll, past Long-hena’s work of art, the church of Santa Maria della Salute , to Punta della Dogana, a great spot for taking photos of Piazza San Marco. Turn back in the direction of the Zattere and Giudecca Canal. Lunch is recommended at Al Chioschetto, a snack bar right on the water’s edge. (Zattere, Dorsoduro 1406/a).

Afternoon

Wander through to Campo Santa Margherita to the Scuola Grande dei Carmini to admire Tiepolo’s canvases, then take time to admire the architectural curiosities of this fascinating square.

As sunset approaches waste no time in occupying a table for a Spritz apéritif at the trendy bar Margaret DuChamp (Campo S Margherita, Dorsoduro 3019 041 528 62 55 Closed Tue). It’s hard to better this as a place for people-watching, and an added bonus is the scent of jasmine that fills the air as night falls.

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Hotel price categories

For a standard, double room per night (with breakfast if included), taxes and extra charges.
- under €100
- €100-€150
- €150-€250
- €250-€350
- over €350