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Aptly named after the Arab word darsina’a (house of industry), Venice’s formidable Arsenale shipyards at one time employed an army of 16,000 to produce the fleets that sailed the Mediterranean, spreading the influence of the Republic through trade deals and naval superiority. Justifiably proud of its innovative assembly-line system, the Arsenale could construct a galley in a matter of hours, notably in 1574 while the French king Henry III was enjoying a banquet. Ringed by walls and towers bearing the winged lion, some of its ancient docks and workshops are now being adapted as exhibition and performance venues (see Arsenale). The row of stone lions which are guarding the entrance hail from various Greek islands looted by Venetian commanders.

Watch glass artist Davide Penso at work producing marvellous African-inspired glass beads.

In an old covered passageway long home to the Rialto Market goldsmiths is a young designer who makes limited-edition necklaces.

This converted cinema regularly stages live ethnic and other music, free of charge. The day’s programme is generally posted on the door.

An enthusiastic multilingual welcome is extended to all visitors in this lively wine bar that never seems to close. It boasts almost non-stop service, an extended “happy hour” from 4–7pm and a delicious assortment of Spanish-style tapas snack meals to accompany the wine.

The majestic Santa Maria della Salute, designed at the age of 26, is Longhena’s (1598–1682) masterpiece, but his flamboyant style is recognizable in numerous churches and palaces, notably Ca’ Rezzonico (see Ca’ Rezzonico).

A welcome watering hole in a converted market store at Rialto, where Andrea guarantees quality Italian vintages and tasty nibbles. On the seasonal menu is carpaccio di branzino alla rucola (marinated sea bass with rocket).

Shaded by a leafy pergola, the outside tables are perfect for enjoying a quick sandwich.