Accounting for the huge crescent between the northern bank of the Grand Canal and the lagoon, the bustling sestiere of Cannaregio reaches from the railway station to the city hospital. It was home to Marco Polo and artists Titian and Tintoretto, and boasts landmark churches such as Madonna dell’Orto along with an old Jewish Ghetto. Named after the reeds (canne) that once filled its marshes, it is crossed by Strada Nova, the city’s main thoroughfare, but also boasts Venice’s narrowest alley, the 58-cm (2-ft) wide Calle Varisco. Never a dull moment passes thanks to its market, craft workshops and rowing clubs, while relaxation comes at the string of shady parks and laid-back cafés and bars that line the maze of back-street canals .
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Friendly family trattoria with a garden and canalside dining.
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An unbeatable range of sandwiches. Eat in or take away.
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Eye-catching window displays of sophisticated ladies’ fashion. Good range of stock changing from season to season.
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A self-service restaurant open from breakfast to dinner, everything prepared as you wait.
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In this odd funnel-shaped square your attention is drawn to three statues of Arabian-style “Moors” – but neither North African nor Muslim, they hailed from Morea in Greece. Rioba, Sandi and Afani Mastelli were medieval traders who made their home in the family palace around the corner. Next to the bridge over Rio della Sensa is a doorway marked No. 3399, once the residence of the renowned 16th-century artist Tintoretto (see Jacopo Tintoretto)
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Staying at the 3 star (good budget value) Hotel Tre Archi we were away from the very busy tourist parts of Venice and right next to the Cannaregio canal. The area is a wonderful one to stay in for both practical purposes and enjoyment of a unique, atmospheric, city.
On a practical level there are very handy vaporetto (waterbus) stops. The Tre Archi stop is on route 52 and can take you all the way around the city. The Guglie stop can take you to the airport in approximately 45 minutes. The train station is also just over the canal. There are useful shops like the Tabacchi (tobacconists/newsagent) on the Fondamenta Cannaregio (next to the canal). There is also a post office along a side street. The San Marcuola vaparetto stop (to take you to St. Mark's down the Grand Canal) is a short walk away, where the Cannaregio and Grand Canal meet.
The area is interesting and alive, yet not overwhelmed by jostling crowds and hordes of other tourists. You can see how life in Venice works as the boats carrying supermarket stock, building materials, flowers etc. pass by. Just past the Guglie vaporetto stop is the Rio Tera San Leonardo. This is a main street and has a wonderful market with good shopping. There are some great bars where you can stop for coffee in the morning and Spritze in the evening. This is a drink that involves Campari, white wine and soda/fizzy white wine. It can also be served with Grappa instead of Campari. Our favourite was the second bar on the left, as you enter the street from the Cannaregio canal. There are also some wonderful restaurants, especially in the streets off the main drag. Quality of food and service is, obviously, variable but you will always have an authentic experience and we were always charged fair rates in this area of Venice.
The best way to see Venice is on foot or by water, and being in the north of Venice in the district of Cannaregio means you get ample opportunity to do both. The very famous sights, such as the Rialto bridge, are 20-30 minutes walk away. However, the Jewish ghetto is right next to you through some back streets and across a bridge.
If you are willing to have a go and join in, then practice your bonjourno, and stay in the Cannaregio district!
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Behind the palace’s beautiful Gothic tracery is a memorable column-filled courtyard paved with myriad coloured tesserae. Inside is the Galleria Franchetti, an enticing collection of paintings, sculptures, coins and ceramics donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti in 1916, together with the building. One highlight is Andrea Mantegna’s agonizing St Sebastian (1560) pierced by arrows “like a hedgehog”, in the portico leading through to a stunning loggia overlooking the Grand Canal. An ornate 15th-century staircase climbs to the second floor where there are huge 16th-century Flemish tapestries (see Ca’ Dario).
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Set in a peaceful square, this church is a bit of a hotchpotch after undergoing numerous architectural modifications before it was suppressed under Napoleon. An oratory and a paupers’ hospital, it was founded in the 14th-century, with funding from Doge Cristoforo Moro and decorations by Pietro Lombardo. Superb altarpieces by Giovanni Bellini and Vittorio Carpaccio now hang in the Accademia Galleries (see Accademia Galleries), but still here are a 1445 triptych by Vivarini in the sacristy and a lovely Nativity (1540) by Girolamo Savoldo.
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The newly restructured Malibran Theatre in this photogenic square was erected on the site of the Polo family abode, where famous 13th-century explorer Marco was born (see Marco Polo). Other early Gothic buildings remain, their timber overhangs set off by bright red geraniums. Along with the adjoining bridge, the square was named in honour of the explorer whose marvellous stories about the Orient in his book Il Milione continue to inspire generations of travellers.
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Tiny little wine bar on the Fondamenta dei Ormesini near to the Ghetto . Serves a good selection of wines , by the glass or bottle , as well as a good selection of tasty cichetti . Is a bit off the beaten track and so there are very few tourists present , mainly local venetians . The service is friendly - all the more so if you try and speak a little Italian . The name "Timon " means rudder , and there is one hanging on the wall . I really enjoyed spending time at Al Timon and will definitely return on my next visit . Well worth seeking it out . It is also very close to the Ristorante Anice Stellato , just over the bridge on Fondamenta della Sensa , another venetian delight , again not much visited by tourists .
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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