Accounting for the huge crescent between the northern bank of the Grand Canal and the lagoon, the bustling sestiere of Cannaregio reaches from the railway station to the city hospital. It was home to Marco Polo and artists Titian and Tintoretto, and boasts landmark churches such as Madonna dell’Orto along with an old Jewish Ghetto. Named after the reeds (canne) that once filled its marshes, it is crossed by Strada Nova, the city’s main thoroughfare, but also boasts Venice’s narrowest alley, the 58-cm (2-ft) wide Calle Varisco. Never a dull moment passes thanks to its market, craft workshops and rowing clubs, while relaxation comes at the string of shady parks and laid-back cafés and bars that line the maze of back-street canals .
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Friendly family trattoria with a garden and canalside dining.
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An unbeatable range of sandwiches. Eat in or take away.
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Eye-catching window displays of sophisticated ladies’ fashion. Good range of stock changing from season to season.
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A self-service restaurant open from breakfast to dinner, everything prepared as you wait.
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In this odd funnel-shaped square your attention is drawn to three statues of Arabian-style “Moors” – but neither North African nor Muslim, they hailed from Morea in Greece. Rioba, Sandi and Afani Mastelli were medieval traders who made their home in the family palace around the corner. Next to the bridge over Rio della Sensa is a doorway marked No. 3399, once the residence of the renowned 16th-century artist Tintoretto (see Jacopo Tintoretto)
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Behind the palace’s beautiful Gothic tracery is a memorable column-filled courtyard paved with myriad coloured tesserae. Inside is the Galleria Franchetti, an enticing collection of paintings, sculptures, coins and ceramics donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti in 1916, together with the building. One highlight is Andrea Mantegna’s agonizing St Sebastian (1560) pierced by arrows “like a hedgehog”, in the portico leading through to a stunning loggia overlooking the Grand Canal. An ornate 15th-century staircase climbs to the second floor where there are huge 16th-century Flemish tapestries (see Ca’ Dario).
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Set in a peaceful square, this church is a bit of a hotchpotch after undergoing numerous architectural modifications before it was suppressed under Napoleon. An oratory and a paupers’ hospital, it was founded in the 14th-century, with funding from Doge Cristoforo Moro and decorations by Pietro Lombardo. Superb altarpieces by Giovanni Bellini and Vittorio Carpaccio now hang in the Accademia Galleries (see Accademia Galleries), but still here are a 1445 triptych by Vivarini in the sacristy and a lovely Nativity (1540) by Girolamo Savoldo.
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The newly restructured Malibran Theatre in this photogenic square was erected on the site of the Polo family abode, where famous 13th-century explorer Marco was born (see Marco Polo). Other early Gothic buildings remain, their timber overhangs set off by bright red geraniums. Along with the adjoining bridge, the square was named in honour of the explorer whose marvellous stories about the Orient in his book Il Milione continue to inspire generations of travellers.
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Morning
Begin the day with the Galleria Franchetti in the lovely Ca d’Oro , but leave plenty of time for the balconies which overlook the Grand Canal and the mosaics in the courtyard. Afterwards follow Strada Nova in the direction of the railway station to the Bottega del Caffè (Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 1903 041 714 232 Closed Sat pm & Sun) for the best coffee in Cannaregio. Only minutes away is the fascinating Jewish Ghetto , where you can take a guided tour to the many remaining synagogues in the area.
For a revitalising break, lunch at Hostaria alla Fontana is recommended (Fondamenta di Cannaregio, Cannaregio 1102 041 715 077 Closed Sun).
Afternoon
Wander up the canal towards Ponte dei Tre Archi and the Chiesa di San Giobbe. Return back over the bridge and make your way to Fondamenta della Sacca, which affords good views of the Dolomites in clear conditions. Many ways lead east from here, but try and take in the church of Madonna dell’Orto for the Tintoretto paintings, then Campo dei Mori .
Back on Strada Nova, an energetic young team awaits at La Cantina with a pre-dinner glass of wine from their north Italian range (Strada Nova, Cannaregio 3689 041 522 82 58 Closed Sun).
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The “Casa degli Speziali”, the oldest pharmacy in Venice, carries on its business in modern premises alongside its restored 16th-century rooms. Displayed on original briarwood shelving adorned with Baroque statues in Arolla pinewood, are rows of 17th-century porcelain jars for medicinal ingredients; for safety reasons poisons were kept in a rear room. Pharmacies were strictly regulated and totalled 518 in 1564, the year their guild was formed.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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