Accounting for the huge crescent between the northern bank of the Grand Canal and the lagoon, the bustling sestiere of Cannaregio reaches from the railway station to the city hospital. It was home to Marco Polo and artists Titian and Tintoretto, and boasts landmark churches such as Madonna dell’Orto along with an old Jewish Ghetto. Named after the reeds (canne) that once filled its marshes, it is crossed by Strada Nova, the city’s main thoroughfare, but also boasts Venice’s narrowest alley, the 58-cm (2-ft) wide Calle Varisco. Never a dull moment passes thanks to its market, craft workshops and rowing clubs, while relaxation comes at the string of shady parks and laid-back cafés and bars that line the maze of back-street canals .
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Staying at the 3 star (good budget value) Hotel Tre Archi we were away from the very busy tourist parts of Venice and right next to the Cannaregio canal. The area is a wonderful one to stay in for both practical purposes and enjoyment of a unique, atmospheric, city.
On a practical level there are very handy vaporetto (waterbus) stops. The Tre Archi stop is on route 52 and can take you all the way around the city. The Guglie stop can take you to the airport in approximately 45 minutes. The train station is also just over the canal. There are useful shops like the Tabacchi (tobacconists/newsagent) on the Fondamenta Cannaregio (next to the canal). There is also a post office along a side street. The San Marcuola vaparetto stop (to take you to St. Mark's down the Grand Canal) is a short walk away, where the Cannaregio and Grand Canal meet.
The area is interesting and alive, yet not overwhelmed by jostling crowds and hordes of other tourists. You can see how life in Venice works as the boats carrying supermarket stock, building materials, flowers etc. pass by. Just past the Guglie vaporetto stop is the Rio Tera San Leonardo. This is a main street and has a wonderful market with good shopping. There are some great bars where you can stop for coffee in the morning and Spritze in the evening. This is a drink that involves Campari, white wine and soda/fizzy white wine. It can also be served with Grappa instead of Campari. Our favourite was the second bar on the left, as you enter the street from the Cannaregio canal. There are also some wonderful restaurants, especially in the streets off the main drag. Quality of food and service is, obviously, variable but you will always have an authentic experience and we were always charged fair rates in this area of Venice.
The best way to see Venice is on foot or by water, and being in the north of Venice in the district of Cannaregio means you get ample opportunity to do both. The very famous sights, such as the Rialto bridge, are 20-30 minutes walk away. However, the Jewish ghetto is right next to you through some back streets and across a bridge.
If you are willing to have a go and join in, then practice your bonjourno, and stay in the Cannaregio district!
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Tiny little wine bar on the Fondamenta dei Ormesini near to the Ghetto . Serves a good selection of wines , by the glass or bottle , as well as a good selection of tasty cichetti . Is a bit off the beaten track and so there are very few tourists present , mainly local venetians . The service is friendly - all the more so if you try and speak a little Italian . The name "Timon " means rudder , and there is one hanging on the wall . I really enjoyed spending time at Al Timon and will definitely return on my next visit . Well worth seeking it out . It is also very close to the Ristorante Anice Stellato , just over the bridge on Fondamenta della Sensa , another venetian delight , again not much visited by tourists .
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A three star hotel right next to the Cannaregio canal and very near to all transport options for connecting to the airport. We got a good rate, booking through Hotel Connect's website. There is no lift, so if you have mobility problems then it would be important to specify that you would like to be on the ground floor.
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This is , for me , one of the top three restaurants in Venice , along with Vini da Gigio and Alla Madonna . [Why are'nt they in DK's top ten I wonder] ? Anice Stellato is in northern Cannaregio and so does'nt see many tourists . Despite this , it is so popular with locals that , like Vini da Gigio , you have to book well in advance . I actually telephoned from Scotland ten days before and I'm glad that I did as on the night the staff turned away a number of people who had turned up on the off chance of getting a table .Sevice was friendly and brisk . Again , trying to speak a little Italian certainly helps . The food was excellent , the first course of prawns in a basil sauce was to die for . I will definitely be returning on my next visit . Highly recommended .
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Superb restaurant just off the Strada Nova , along Fondamenta San Felice , run by the friendly Paolo Lazzari and his sister . Very popular with Venetians , very busy so booking essential . The food is amazing , lots of tasty venetian seafood . Service is friendly and efficient . A definite "must " if you are visiting Venice for a couple of days .
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