Cannaregio District: practical, budget minded, enjoyable place to stay.
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Staying at the 3 star (good budget value) Hotel Tre Archi we were away from the very busy tourist parts of Venice and right next to the Cannaregio canal. The area is a wonderful one to stay in for both practical purposes and enjoyment of a unique, atmospheric, city.
On a practical level there are very handy vaporetto (waterbus) stops. The Tre Archi stop is on route 52 and can take you all the way around the city. The Guglie stop can take you to the airport in approximately 45 minutes. The train station is also just over the canal. There are useful shops like the Tabacchi (tobacconists/newsagent) on the Fondamenta Cannaregio (next to the canal). There is also a post office along a side street. The San Marcuola vaparetto stop (to take you to St. Mark's down the Grand Canal) is a short walk away, where the Cannaregio and Grand Canal meet.
The area is interesting and alive, yet not overwhelmed by jostling crowds and hordes of other tourists. You can see how life in Venice works as the boats carrying supermarket stock, building materials, flowers etc. pass by. Just past the Guglie vaporetto stop is the Rio Tera San Leonardo. This is a main street and has a wonderful market with good shopping. There are some great bars where you can stop for coffee in the morning and Spritze in the evening. This is a drink that involves Campari, white wine and soda/fizzy white wine. It can also be served with Grappa instead of Campari. Our favourite was the second bar on the left, as you enter the street from the Cannaregio canal. There are also some wonderful restaurants, especially in the streets off the main drag. Quality of food and service is, obviously, variable but you will always have an authentic experience and we were always charged fair rates in this area of Venice.
The best way to see Venice is on foot or by water, and being in the north of Venice in the district of Cannaregio means you get ample opportunity to do both. The very famous sights, such as the Rialto bridge, are 20-30 minutes walk away. However, the Jewish ghetto is right next to you through some back streets and across a bridge.
If you are willing to have a go and join in, then practice your bonjourno, and stay in the Cannaregio district!
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