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Morning
After a visit to the Gothic church on Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo, wander through the city’s hospital. Although it is now ultra-modern inside, you can still appreciate the wonderful Renaissance façade, and a series of ancient courtyards and confraternity buildings. Continue the historic theme with a coffee and cake at old-style Rosa Salva (Campo SS Giovanni e Paolo, Castello 6779 041 522 79 49).
Take a stroll, via Campo Santa Maria Formosa, to Campo San Zaccaria and the church with its Bellini painting and Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni (see Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni) for its Carpaccio works. For lunch, Via Garibaldi is a good bet, at one of the cafés or at Sottoprova (041 520 64 93 Closed Mon).
Afternoon
Head east along Via Garibaldi, and detour briefly into the shady avenue for the statue of Giuseppe Garibaldi and his followers. After a visit to the island of San Pietro di Castello, make your way back via the lagoon and the Giardini. A poignant sculpture to the female partisans of World War II can be seen at water level.
Heading in the direction of San Marco, just past the mouth of Via Garibaldi, on the embankment is Angiò Bar, the perfect spot for a Venetian sunset together with a glass of wine, not to mention all manner of delicious snacks (Riva di S Biasio, Castello 2142 041 277 85 55 Closed Tue).
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