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Morning

Drink your fill of Tintoretto’s dynamic paintings at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco before wandering east to Campo San Polo . Coffee is a must in the square, either at one of the local bars or at the attractive Antica Birraria La Corte .

It’s not far from here to Rialto Market for late morning bargains of fresh produce, often nearing half price when stall-holders are in a hurry to shut up shop. If this has worked up an appetite, a Grand Canal-side lunch is worth consideration at this point. There is a string of eateries spread along the sun-blessed Riva del Vin, close to the foot of Rialto Bridge. Each displays live lobster and fish and multi-lingual menus. In winter diners sit in see-through “tents” so that views of the canal and the procession of boats are ensured.

Afternoon

Make your way north and explore the craft and gift shops, lace, scarf and T-shirt stalls along Ruga Rialto and the old red-light area of Rio Terrà Rampani .

Try to end up in pretty Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio for a pre-dinner drink at Al Prosecco wine bar (Campo S Giacomo dell’Orio, S Croce 1503 041 524 02 22 Closed Sun). Ask for the fruity red Refosco from Friuli and bocconcino con mortadella di cinghiale (bite-sized roll with wild boar slice).

Morning

From the Santa Maria Elisabetta ferry stop, either hire a bicycle or take buses B or V southwest along the lagoon edge for Malamocco. Wander through the peaceful village and over its bridge to the sea to take in the Adriatic and the impressive seawall. Then proceed with buses B or 11 through Alberoni and past the golf course for the vehicle ferry across the lagoon entrance. Get off at the second stop for San Pietro in Volta. Climb the high seawall for views of the sea, before turning lagoon-wards for the pastel-painted fishing settlement spread along the waterfront.

Have lunch at one of the trattorias (see Trattoria Scarso, Trattoria Da Nane) or a sandwich and glass of wine at one of the modest waterfront bars.

Afternoon

Further south the bus terminates at Pellestrina, a brightly painted fishing village flanked by an active shipyard. The passenger ferry to Chioggia is a beautiful half-hour cruise past mussel grounds punctuated with fisher huts perched on poles, via the Ca’ Roman landing stage, which provides access to a beach. Chioggia is a lovely town to explore, with its traffic-free piazza lined with old palazzos and countless fish restaurants.

Indulge in a pre-dinner drink and snack at one of the laidback cafés in the elegant Corso del Popolo.

Morning

Where better to begin than the inspiring arena, where wild animals once made a meal of gladiators as entertainment? Afterwards, relax in the sun with a creamy coffee at Liston 12 Caffè and dig into a freshly baked jam-filled croissant (Piazza Brà 12, Verona 045 803 1168)

A short stroll leads past the boutiques in traffic-free Via Mazzini, paved with pink-tinged local limestone embedded with ammonite fossils, to Casa di Giulietta to the right, or Piazza delle Erbe and its elegant palaces to the left.

Backtrack to Via Mazzini for lunch at Ristorante Greppia (Vicolo Samaritana 3, Verona 045 800 4577 Closed Mon) for bollito misto (nine types of boiled meat) served with a traditional peppery sauce.

Afternoon

To digest lunch, head over the Adige River via the ancient Ponte di Pietra to the Roman theatre on Via Regaste Redentore – well worth a visit even if you’re not in town for a summer evening performance. Then follow the river or walk back through town and west towards the medieval Ponte Scaligero, part of the adjoining castle. The triple-arched construction was blown up by the German army in World War II, then rebuilt brick by brick by the town.

The bridge leads to Castelvecchio for a timely apéritif with a glass of white Soave wine at any of the welcoming bars.

Morning

Begin the day with the Galleria Franchetti in the lovely Ca d’Oro , but leave plenty of time for the balconies which overlook the Grand Canal and the mosaics in the courtyard. Afterwards follow Strada Nova in the direction of the railway station to the Bottega del Caffè (Calle del Pistor, Cannaregio 1903 041 714 232 Closed Sat pm & Sun) for the best coffee in Cannaregio. Only minutes away is the fascinating Jewish Ghetto , where you can take a guided tour to the many remaining synagogues in the area.

For a revitalising break, lunch at Hostaria alla Fontana is recommended (Fondamenta di Cannaregio, Cannaregio 1102 041 715 077 Closed Sun).

Afternoon

Wander up the canal towards Ponte dei Tre Archi and the Chiesa di San Giobbe. Return back over the bridge and make your way to Fondamenta della Sacca, which affords good views of the Dolomites in clear conditions. Many ways lead east from here, but try and take in the church of Madonna dell’Orto for the Tintoretto paintings, then Campo dei Mori .

Back on Strada Nova, an energetic young team awaits at La Cantina with a pre-dinner glass of wine from their north Italian range (Strada Nova, Cannaregio 3689 041 522 82 58 Closed Sun).

Morning

To save money, buy a laguna nord day ticket (see Island Boat Fares) then take a vaporetto to Murano to watch a glassmaking demonstration at a furnace or one of the workshops. Don’t miss Murano’s very own Grand Canal, before returning via Fondamenta Manin with its medieval porticoes for the turn-off towards the Faro (lighthouse) landing stage. Bar al Faro is a perfect place for coffee. (Fondamenta Piave 20, Murano 041 739 724 Closed Sun).

Take a ferry to Burano . Either picnic on the famous Burano biscuits or lunch at Da Romano. A popular meeting place for artists, its speciality is risotto Romano , a rice dish flavoured with fish broth (Piazza Galuppi 221, Burano 041 730 030).

Afternoon

Pop over to Torcello by ferry for the awe-inspiring Byzantine mosaics in the basilica. Climb the bell tower for unbeatable views of the lagoon, and the mountains if visibility is favourable.

Return to the water on a ferry via Burano south past low-lying islands and tidal flats. A stretch parallel to the sandy littoral separating the lagoon from the Adriatic Sea takes you to Punta Sabbioni, where a stopover is feasible for a drink on the jetty.

End the day sailing across the broad lagoon mouth, via the Lido (see Lido: San Nicolò, Lido: beach side), back to Piazza San Marco .