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Blinding in the morning sun thanks to its cleansing face-lift, the early Renaissance façade of this historic building, home to masterpieces by Tintoretto, is a marvel of intertwined sculpted stone wreaths and crouching elephants dwarfed by admirable columns. The Istrian stone facing is embedded with a rainbow medley of burgundy porphyry and green and cream veined marble inserts. Designed by Bartolomeo Bon in 1517 and added to by Scarpagnino and other stone-masons, the imposing building with neighbouring church was home to one of the city’s foremost confraternities, honoured with an annual visit by the Doge.
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A new and welcome introduction to Venice for families, for its indoor children’s playground. This centrally located Italian-run hybrid hamburger, pizza and salad outlet has very reasonable prices and plentiful seating.
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This is by far the city’s most famous gondola repair and construction yard, though its active days may be numbered. The combined workshop-dwelling, its window sills clad with geraniums, is reminiscent of an Alpine chalet as the first occupants came from the mountainous Cadore region. Though closed to visitors, it backs on to a canal (Rio di San Gervasio e Protasio) so it’s easy to watch the goings-on as oar-propelled craft are brought in for caulking and cleaning.
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Long masked in scaffolding since a 1996 arson attack left it gutted, the historic “Phoenix” theatre has finally risen from the flames. Selva’s 1792 opera house, just one of 17 theatres at the time, has staged countless world premieres including Rossini’s Tancredi in 1813, five operas commissioned of Verdi, most notably Rigoletto and La Traviata , and more recent works by Stravinsky and Luigi Nono. Legendary divas Maria Callas and Dame Joan Sutherland have sung in this glorious setting.
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A castle courtyard draped with creepers was chosen for this Vicenza theatre, designed by Palladio and completed by his disciple Vincenzo Scamozzi. The performing area is based on a Roman model, while the stage scenery is a replica of the city of Thebes, built for the inaugural play, Sophocles’ Oedipus Rex , in 1585. Scaled statues and varying stage levels create clever tricks of perspective.
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Youngsters are greeted by Mickey Mouse on a bridge, while Donald Duck fishes an old boot out of a canal. Usual Disney fare is on sale.
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This massive Roman amphitheatre from the 1st century AD and measures almost 140 m (460 ft) in length. The arcades and 44-level tiered seating for 22,000 people, that once rang with the cries of gladiator fights, now echo with arias from operas during the popular summer festival. Verdi’s Aïda marked the inauguration in 1913, and is repeated every year.
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A pleasant avenue now lined with cafés and a market, Via Garibaldi was triumphantly named when the eponymous general marched into Venice in 1866 as part of his round-Italy campaign for Unification. Take a stroll to the Giardini (public gardens). To make way for the park in 1807, architect Selva (see Giannantonio Selva) demolished four churches and convents and a sailors’ hospice.
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This broad waterfront took its name from the rafts of timber (zattere ) floated downstream from the extensive forests in the northern Dolomite region which were managed by the Venetian Republic. The precious wood was used for constructing palaces or transformed into masts and the like for the important shipbuilding industry. The tall-masted sailing ships and rowing boats which used to moor here have been replaced by motorized vaporetti and tourist launches, and nowadays the Zattere signifies lovely lagoon views, perfect for a day or evening stroll.
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