Torcello
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Some of the most breathtaking Byzantine mosaics in the world, found in the lagoon’s oldest building, the Torcello basilica, reward those who visit this laid-back island, a beautiful 60-minute ferry ride from northern Venice. From the 5th century, mainlanders fleeing invading Lombards and Huns ventured across tidal flats to found a settlement that grew to 20,000 and lasted 1,000 years. However few clues to the past remain, as the canals silted up, malaria decimated the population and the power base shifted to Venice once and for all. Today Torcello is home to a handful of gardeners and fishermen.
For more on the Northern Lagoon islands (see The Northern Lagoon)
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1. Basilica Exterior
1. Basilica ExteriorA miraculous survivor, this striking cathedral was founded in 639 but underwent radical restructuring in 1008. It retains its Romanesque form, light brick walls and an arcaded 9th-century portico.
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2. Doomsday Mosaics, Basilica
In these 12–13th-century marvels the Universal Judgment is dramatically depicted in superbly restored scenes of devils, angels, wild beasts and fires.
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3. Apse Mosaics, Basilica
This moving 13th-century mosaic shows the Virgin in a blue robe with gold fringing, cradling her radiant child in a gentle stance. Below are the 12 Apostles standing in a meadow of flowers.
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4. Iconostasis, Basilica
Exquisite marble panels show peacocks drinking at the fountain of eternal life, diminutive lions posing under a tree of tendrils loaded with birds, while six columns support 15th-century paintings of the Apostles with the Virgin.
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5. Paving, Basilica
In vivid swirls of colours, rivalling the flooring in Basilica San Marco, are brilliant 11th-century tesserae of stone and glass. Cubes, semi-circles and triangles are laid into square designs. The floor level was raised 30 cm (1 ft) during the basilica’s reconstruction.
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6. Campanile
The views from this simple 55-m (180-ft) bell tower range over the vast expanse of the lagoon, with its meandering canals and tidal flats, to the Adriatic Sea, Venice itself and even north to the Alps on a clear winter’s day.
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7. Throne of Attila
By popular belief this marble armchair was the throne of the king of the Huns, though historical sources claim it was for the island’s magistrates.
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8. Museo dell’Estuario
8. Museo dell’EstuarioAn intriguing if modest collection of archaeological finds from the island and priceless treasures from the church, are housed in adjoining Gothic buildings.
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9. Santa Fosca
Alongside the basilica is this elegant church based on a Greek cross design, encircled by a five-sided portico with columns and carved capitals. The inside of the church is usually closed at lunchtime.
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10. Locanda Cipriani
A favourite of Ernest Hemingway, who stayed here in 1948, the quiet charm of this guesthouse has attracted VIPs since it opened in 1938 (see Locanda Cipriani).
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