DK Travel : Venice : Dorsoduro

A district of contrasts , Dorsoduro stretches from the port, backed by an historic but rather run-down zone long home to sailors and fishermen, via the panoramic Zattere and Grand Canal, all the way to the Punta della Dogana, a chic area of foreign consulates and wealthy residences. Highlights for visitors include two foremost art galleries, the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, crammed with masterpieces ancient and modern, as well as Ca’ Rezzonico palace and magnificent churches, Santa Maria della Salute and San Sebastiano, the latter famous for its wonderful Veronese canvases. Literally the “hard backbone” of Venice as it was built on elevated islands of compacted subsoil, Dorsoduro used to be sparsely populated due to its exposure to pirate attacks. Today, as home to most of the city’s university premises, it is full of lively cafés, bars and nightlife, concentrated in the market square, Campo Santa Margherita.

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Paola Carraro transforms paintings by modern masters Klee, Magritte and others into hand-knitted sweaters and dresses. Commissions are taken so you can wear your favourite painting.
Accademia Galleries

(see Accademia Galleries).
Ai Gondolieri

One of the city’s top restaurants, specializing in game from the Veneto when in season. Extensive wine list.
Alla Toletta

Choose from an innovative range of pizza slices to take away, including wild mushroom, smoked ham, tomatoes and rocket.
Arras

Original hand-woven fabrics, garments and bags in beautiful colours.
Bac Art Studio

Attractive and affordable etchings and prints of Venice by artists Baruffaldi and Cadore. Buy them framed if desired.
Bar Abbazia

Shaded by a leafy pergola, the outside tables are perfect for enjoying a quick sandwich.
Billa Supermarket

Open seven days a week with freshly baked bread, great cheese and salami counter, wine, fruit and vegetables.
Campo San Barnaba

Nowadays a modest square dotted with some low-key bars, its main attraction is a colourful moored barge loaded high with shiny fresh fruit and vegetables – a must for photographers. Its history has not always been so peaceful, however – the square used to be the arena for fierce rivalries between the city’s working class bands, the Nicolotti and Castellani, who would fight it out on the Ponte dei Pugni (see Ponte dei Pugni). On a more forgiving note, the rather nondescript church used to take in disgraced and bankrupt nobility.
Ca’ Macana

Mask-makers extraordinaire, with life-size unicorns, pointy jester heads with bells and the full Carnival range.

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Restaurant price categories

For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
- under €30
- €30-€40
- €40-€50
- €50-€60
- over €60