The northern lagoon is dotted with mud flats and abandoned islands where rambling monasteries lie crumbling in the sun, backed by sweeping views of snow-capped mountains. Refugees from the mainland, fleeing the Huns, first settled on Torcello, which grew with the additional influx of influential religious orders. Today, however, only a handful of islands are still inhabited – glassmaking Murano is the most important, while Burano, Mazzorbo and Sant’ Erasmo have skeletal populations of fishermen and market gardeners. Salt pans, such as Le Saline, were a source of employment until as late as 1913.
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Wonderful al fresco fish restaurant, surrounded by Burano’s colourful houses.
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Renowned for its spring artichokes and roast duck, this laid-back trattoria also serves a light, local white wine. Lunch and early dinner only.
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Watch glass artist Davide Penso at work producing marvellous African-inspired glass beads.
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The world’s oldest family of glassmakers, the Baroviers trace their ancestry back to the 13th century. They still produce stunning contemporary pieces.
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A haven for artists, brightly painted houses, fish and lace-making are the pride of Burano. The islanders cherish an old legend about a faithful sailor who resisted the Sirens’ call and was rewarded with a magnificent veil of magical foam for his bride, later worked into lace, a trade that brought worldwide fame and fortune to the isolated fisherfolk. These days, although old women still strain their eyes with patient stitches, many articles are in fact imported from abroad. The island’s dramatically leaning bell tower is visible from afar.
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The first shop you see as you disembark at Murano, this internationally known firm specializes in distinctive modern pieces.
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Book in advance to eat at this rambling farmhouse turned trattoria. Dishes include dumplings with crab and artichokes or asparagus lasagne.
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Inhabited by religious communities for more than 600 years, the “charterhouse” island went the way of many of its neighbours under occupation by French, Austrian and Italian forces, though currently as the property of the City Council, is slowly being cleaned up as a public park. Though there is no public boat service, it can be seen from vaporetto lines as they circle eastern Castello. Also clearly visible from the LidoPunta Sabbioni ferry are the impressive fortified ramparts of Sanmicheli’s 16th-century Forte di Sant’Andrea, which faced any hostile vessels that dared to enter the lagoon unbidden.
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This talented artist from a long line of glassmakers, transforms the ancient art of murrhine glassware into striking modern objects.
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Here delicate lace handkerchiefs are sewn on a traditional cylindrical cushion.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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