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Padua, Vicenza and Verona : Overview & Top 10

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A wealth of art cities punctuates the fertile Veneto plain that stretches in a broad wedge north from the Po River to the foothills of the Dolomites. There is ample evidence of the presence of Romans and Venetians alike in the shape of fascinating amphitheatres and elegant palaces in places such as Verona and Vicenza, both towns recently declared World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Moreover, amid vineyards of grapes pressed for light sparkling Prosecco and aromatic Bardolino are charming, little visited villas with ornamental gardens. Each town has its distinctive character: business-like Padua, yet with a richly artistic and religious heart; Vicenza, contained and proper in its country setting and equally famous for its goldsmiths and the architecture of Andrea Palladio; then romantic Verona, lazing on the banks of the mighty Adige River as it flows south swollen with snow-melt from the Alps. Highlights in each locality are all feasible as day-trips from Venice by train.

  • Morning

    Where better to begin than the inspiring arena, where wild animals once made a meal of gladiators as entertainment? Afterwards, relax in the sun with a creamy coffee at Liston 12 Caffè and dig into a freshly baked jam-filled croissant (Piazza Brà 12, Verona 045 803 1168)

    A short stroll leads past the boutiques in traffic-free Via Mazzini, paved with pink-tinged local limestone embedded with ammonite fossils, to Casa di Giulietta to the right, or Piazza delle Erbe and its elegant palaces to the left.

    Backtrack to Via Mazzini for lunch at Ristorante Greppia (Vicolo Samaritana 3, Verona 045 800 4577 Closed Mon) for bollito misto (nine types of boiled meat) served with a traditional peppery sauce.

    Afternoon

    To digest lunch, head over the Adige River via the ancient Ponte di Pietra to the Roman theatre on Via Regaste Redentore – well worth a visit even if you’re not in town for a summer evening performance. Then follow the river or walk back through town and west towards the medieval Ponte Scaligero, part of the adjoining castle. The triple-arched construction was blown up by the German army in World War II, then rebuilt brick by brick by the town.

    The bridge leads to Castelvecchio for a timely apéritif with a glass of white Soave wine at any of the welcoming bars.

  • A restaurant with an imaginative menu and a vast wine list. Try the Bigoli all’arna (spaghetti with duck sauce).

  • Inviting pastry shop lined with tantalizing almond and chocolate delicacies, and special goodies such as the dove-shaped Colomba cake at Easter.

  • Formerly guest quarters, these are extant “wings” of a 17th-century villa, whose main body was demolished in 1908. Close by are locks on the Brenta waterway, excavated over centuries to divert the river away from the lagoon and eliminate silting.

  • Popularly referred to as “il Santo”, Padua’s revered site of pilgrimage was built in the 13th century to safeguard the mortal remains of St Anthony, a Franciscan monk and miracle worker from Portugal. Worshippers visit his gleaming tomb, encircled by burning candles, but his tongue is guarded in an intricate reliquary in the Treasury, recently recovered after being stolen. In architectural terms the basilica blends Romanesque, Gothic, Islamic and Byzantine elements with elegant arched loggias, minarets and domes, and is a treasure trove of art works by Sansovino, Tiepolo and Titian (see Titian (Tiziano Vecellio)).

  • The original lectern where Galileo Galilei held his lessons between 1592 and 1610 can be seen on the guided tour of Padua’s historic university, founded in 1222 and second only to Bologna as Italy’s oldest. The institution boasts the world’s first anatomy theatre (1594) where dissections had to be carried out in great secrecy as the church forbade such practices. Other illustrious scholars of the university have included astronomer Copernicus (1473–1543), Gabriel Fallopius (1523–62), who discovered the function of the Fallopian tubes, and Elena Lucrezia Corner Piscopia, the world’s first woman graduate (see Elena Lucrezia Corner Piscopia).

  • Renowned restaurant that dates back to 1890 and holds 2,500 wines in its cellar. Food-wise, the favourite is pastissada de caval , a spicy stew.

  • Right across from the Arena, this well-reputed self-service Italian chain restaurant offers a vast variety of meats, cheeses and vegetable dishes.

  • This stylish café can be found in a quiet historic square surrounded by graceful palaces. The place to be seen, sipping tea amid potted palms and cane chairs.

  • This 1831 Neo-Classical coffee house was long known as the “café without doors” because it never closed. Liberals of the 19th century would meet and argue here, though today, after a renovation, it’s rather quiet.

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