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Morning
Where better to begin than the inspiring arena, where wild animals once made a meal of gladiators as entertainment? Afterwards, relax in the sun with a creamy coffee at Liston 12 Caffè and dig into a freshly baked jam-filled croissant (Piazza Brà 12, Verona 045 803 1168)
A short stroll leads past the boutiques in traffic-free Via Mazzini, paved with pink-tinged local limestone embedded with ammonite fossils, to Casa di Giulietta to the right, or Piazza delle Erbe and its elegant palaces to the left.
Backtrack to Via Mazzini for lunch at Ristorante Greppia (Vicolo Samaritana 3, Verona 045 800 4577 Closed Mon) for bollito misto (nine types of boiled meat) served with a traditional peppery sauce.
Afternoon
To digest lunch, head over the Adige River via the ancient Ponte di Pietra to the Roman theatre on Via Regaste Redentore – well worth a visit even if you’re not in town for a summer evening performance. Then follow the river or walk back through town and west towards the medieval Ponte Scaligero, part of the adjoining castle. The triple-arched construction was blown up by the German army in World War II, then rebuilt brick by brick by the town.
The bridge leads to Castelvecchio for a timely apéritif with a glass of white Soave wine at any of the welcoming bars.
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