Venice’s smallest but foremost sestiere (district) named after the city’s patron saint is bounded by the Grand Canal on all but one side, which explains the number of stately palaces in the area. It revolves around the buzz of Piazza San Marco and the majestic Doge’s Palace, the political and legal core of the city until the 18th century. Running off the square are the Mercerie and Calle Larga XXII Marzo, offering wall-to-wall designer shopping. But beyond that San Marco has a residential air, with a great range of places to eat. Don’t hesitate to wander down minor alleyways: surprises include unusual wellheads and many craft workshops.
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Morning
Visit the Doge’s Palace on Piazza San Marco first, arriving early to fit it all in. Must-sees are the Sala del Senato, Sala del Maggior Consiglio, prisons and the Bridge of Sighs. Then take a break for coffee in the modern café in the palace’s former stables and watch the gondolas glide past the glassed-in doorway.
Time your visit to Basilica San Marco for midday, to catch the mosaics illuminated by huge spotlights so they glitter to their utmost. The tiles were laid at angles to catch the light.
Lunch at Harry’s Bar , as Hemingway’s hero did in Across the River and into the Trees . Order the carpaccio , wafer thin slices of raw beef, invented here by Cipriani.
Afternoon
The Mercerie is shopper’s heaven, packed with international high fashion stores from Benetton to Cartier, and classy souvenir glass and hand-crafted paper workshops. For yet more, cross over to Calle Larga XXII Marzo for designer delights such as Bulgari jewellery and Frette linens.
Return to Piazza San Marco (see Piazza San Marco) in time to enjoy the views over Venice and the lagoon from the Campanile at dusk. At ground level again, it’s time for a Bellini apéritif at Caffè Florian to watch the sun set over the façade of the basilica.
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Mediterranean cuisine, including Neapolitan-style pizza.
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A great osteria in a cul-de-sac near the Fenice. Stand at the bar for appetizing snacks or treat yourself to a table.
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A 30-year institution. Try the bigoli in salsa (spaghetti with anchovy and onion purée). Non-smoking rooms and outdoor seating too.
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Spacious self-service eatery. Choice of hot meals, pizza or rolls.
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Next door to the renowned Fenice Theatre (see Teatro La Fenice), this legendary establishment offers outdoor seating on a patio. Otherwise go inside to the bar and munch a toasted sandwich.
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The vibrant colours and simple styles of T-shirts, jackets and jeans attract buyers young and old to this internationally renowned clothes chain. This shop is located in spacious two-floor premises close to Rialto.
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Velvet and silk cushions, tapestries and curtain tassels are a feast for the eyes.
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Striking contemporary jewellery, watches, accessories and Rosenthal porcelain.
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Venetian sweetmeats can be enjoyed here, but most come for the Spritz apéritif, reputedly the best in town (see Spritz).
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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