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Morning
Drink your fill of Tintoretto’s dynamic paintings at the Scuola Grande di San Rocco before wandering east to Campo San Polo . Coffee is a must in the square, either at one of the local bars or at the attractive Antica Birraria La Corte .
It’s not far from here to Rialto Market for late morning bargains of fresh produce, often nearing half price when stall-holders are in a hurry to shut up shop. If this has worked up an appetite, a Grand Canal-side lunch is worth consideration at this point. There is a string of eateries spread along the sun-blessed Riva del Vin, close to the foot of Rialto Bridge. Each displays live lobster and fish and multi-lingual menus. In winter diners sit in see-through “tents” so that views of the canal and the procession of boats are ensured.
Afternoon
Make your way north and explore the craft and gift shops, lace, scarf and T-shirt stalls along Ruga Rialto and the old red-light area of Rio Terrà Rampani .
Try to end up in pretty Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio for a pre-dinner drink at Al Prosecco wine bar (Campo S Giacomo dell’Orio, S Croce 1503 041 524 02 22 Closed Sun). Ask for the fruity red Refosco from Friuli and bocconcino con mortadella di cinghiale (bite-sized roll with wild boar slice).
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