The southern lagoon enjoys protection from the Adriatic Sea with shifting sand spits long transformed into a permanent littoral, the residential Lido, with the ongoing help of nature and man. The latter’s efforts date back to the 6th century, but the earth and wicker barriers have since been modified into sturdy seawalls and massive parallel breakwaters at the shipping entrances of San Nicolò, Alberoni and Chioggia. On the lagoon’s southwestern edge are fish farms and wild shallows where hunters and fishermen still roam, well clear of the Valle Averto reserve run by the World Wildlife Fund for Nature (WWF). Closer to Venice itself is a cluster of sizeable islands such as majestic San Giorgio and populous Giudecca, then diminutive land masses such as a lazaret, where plague victims were once quarantined but which has now been re-adapted as a home for stray dogs, a sanatorium acquired for private development as an exclusive resort, and countless other evocative abandoned places.
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Morning
From the Santa Maria Elisabetta ferry stop, either hire a bicycle or take buses B or V southwest along the lagoon edge for Malamocco. Wander through the peaceful village and over its bridge to the sea to take in the Adriatic and the impressive seawall. Then proceed with buses B or 11 through Alberoni and past the golf course for the vehicle ferry across the lagoon entrance. Get off at the second stop for San Pietro in Volta. Climb the high seawall for views of the sea, before turning lagoon-wards for the pastel-painted fishing settlement spread along the waterfront.
Have lunch at one of the trattorias (see Trattoria Scarso, Trattoria Da Nane) or a sandwich and glass of wine at one of the modest waterfront bars.
Afternoon
Further south the bus terminates at Pellestrina, a brightly painted fishing village flanked by an active shipyard. The passenger ferry to Chioggia is a beautiful half-hour cruise past mussel grounds punctuated with fisher huts perched on poles, via the Ca’ Roman landing stage, which provides access to a beach. Chioggia is a lovely town to explore, with its traffic-free piazza lined with old palazzos and countless fish restaurants.
Indulge in a pre-dinner drink and snack at one of the laidback cafés in the elegant Corso del Popolo.
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Locals celebrate family anniversaries here with the crispy frittura di pesce (fried fish).
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Treat yourself to a candlelit dinner on the terrace. Fish dishes such as frittura mista (assorted fried seafood) are the speciality. Booking advisable.
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The up-market range of mens- and womenswear attracts both foreign and Italian customers.
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Small store but well-stocked with stylish clothes for the young.
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This well-stocked bike shop rents out all normal steeds as well as 4-wheeler family models.
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Ignore the trinkets here and focus on the handcrafted models of bragozzo boats (see Bragozzo) painted in primary colours.
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A lively fishing town, with elegant bridges over navigable canals. The friendly inhabitants have a reputation for lawlessness and bickering, and speak a distinctive dialect with a singsong inflection. Chioggia has a rich history, but its greatest moment came as the arena for the decisive battle in the 1378–9 war, when the Genoese came close to conquering Venice. In flat-bottomed boats the crafty locals enticed the enemy into the lagoon, thus gaining the upper hand.
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Giorgio Boscolo is an expert on traditional fishermen’s clay pipes and the only craftsman still to make them in terracotta and coloured glazes.
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A traditional herbalist who can advise on natural remedies for minor ailments.
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Restaurant price categories
For a three-course meal for one with half a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), taxes and extra charges.
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