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Theoretically, that all came to a halt when the industries in Marghera stopped pumping out groundwater. However, recent studies document both a rise in relative sea level, combined with accelerating subsidence due to changes in plate tectonics and soft sediments compacting under the weight of buildings.

In the course of the city’s history, millions of pinewood piles from the Republic’s carefully cultivated forests in the Alps were driven deep into the compressed clay-mud base and, over time, petrified in the absence of oxygen. These were successively overlaid with horizontal planks and marble-like Istrian stone slabs which served as the foundations for buildings.

The odd tourist miscalculates the distance between the quayside and a waiting water taxi and takes the plunge – inevitably saved by timely intervention from a bystander. Be wary of moss-covered steps when taking a photograph or a rest and, of course, don’t let young children out of your sight near water.

Strict regulations concern façades – only porous stucco can be used for renovation as anything else tends to come away in sheets in damp, windy weather and is a hazard for passers-by. As a result, freshly plastered façades start crumbling weeks after application due to the high humidity and salt content in the air.

At its maximum, 15 m (49 ft) in the navigable channels dredged for shipping and marked by bricole poles. Concern about the danger of silting and obstruction of the city’s lifeline waterways has always been high – one preventitive measure was to reroute two rivers into the Adriatic Sea away from the lagoon. The Brenta was gradually modified between 1400–1600 to have it flow out after Chioggia, and the Sile was redirected towards Jesolo in the 1600s.

On summer Sundays you would be forgiven for thinking that is the case, as families pack small craft with picnic supplies, sunshades, fishing or stereo gear and row, sail, punt or speed out across the lagoon. Many, of course, need boats for work. On average, one in two families possess a pleasure boat.

Getting around on the water

The 1997 census states 68,600, meaning figures have more than halved since the 1950s. Moreover, this includes Italy’s highest percentage of senior citizens. Venice’s permanent population is experiencing a slow but inexorable decline as young couples prefer to move to the mainland with the convenience of a car, not to mention lower house prices, cheaper shopping and fewer tourists.

Yes, it’s the same as the tap water and subject to constant testing and treatment. Until 1884, when the supply piped from the mainland was inaugurated with a fountain in Piazza San Marco, the city depended on rainwater which was meticulously drained and collected in cisterns beneath squares equipped with locked covered wells.

Within each of the city’s six administrative districts (sestiere ), numbers follow the alleyways along one side at a time, taking in branch streets and courtyards when encountered. In Cannaregio, the most extensive district, numbers reach 6420. The post-men are used to this confusing system, but visitors will need the name of the alley (calle ), square (campo ) or quayside (fondamenta ).

Yes. Periodic controls for bacterial counts are carried out and the upper Adriatic normally emerges with a clean slate. Venice’s closest beach is at the Lido, where the city’s families go en masse during the steamy summer months (see Lido: beach side).