Top 10 Osterie (Wine Bars)
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1. Cantina Do Mori
Rows of copper polenta pots hang overhead in this dark, popular bar, billed as the city’s oldest osteria . The affable owners pour wine directly from huge demi-johns and serve delicate postage stamp-sized ham and salad sandwiches (francobolli ).
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2. Osteria alla Patatina (Al Ponte)
Piping hot wedges of fried potato served on skewers (patatine ) are the mainstay here, though don’t neglect the other tasty morsels, such as delicately battered vegetable strips, to be washed down with some Veneto red or white wines served from bottles or demi-johns.
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3. Banco Giro, Osteria da Andrea
A welcome watering hole in a converted market store at Rialto, where Andrea guarantees quality Italian vintages and tasty nibbles. On the seasonal menu is carpaccio di branzino alla rucola (marinated sea bass with rocket).
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4. Osteria del Sacro e Profano
Well worth hunting out near Rialto, this rustic-looking osteria is the haunt of international artists who happily mingle with the locals. Wines from the Veneto and Friuli are served with traditional snacks such as uova con acciughe (hard-boiled egg with anchovy).
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5. Osteria Sora al Ponte
A boisterous establishment run by a market family ensures an entertaining visit. Traditional fare such as bisatei fritti (fried baby eels) and tripe are worth trying with your carafe of wine.
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6. Osteria alla Frasca
Billed as the site where Titian kept his paints and canvases, this tiny picturesque bar serves drinks and snacks on a vine-covered terrace in summer.
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7. Enoteca do Colonne
Animated neighbourhood bar with all manner of counter food ranging from baccalà (salted cod) on crusty bread or hearty musetto sausage, served with great smiles by the affable young owners. Decent selection of Veneto wines too.
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8. Osteria alla Botte
You have to fight your way through the locals here, attracted by the lively atmosphere and counter overflowing with drinkable local wines and appetizing snacks such as fried sardines in breadcrumbs.
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9. Trattoria Ca’ d’Oro alla Vedova
Young enterprising management has recently taken over this timber-panelled establishment which has been serving mouth-watering counter snacks (cicheti ) such as crispy battered artichokes and quaffable wine for longer than any of the regulars can remember.
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10. Al Bottegon
Not far from the Accademia Bridge, join the locals at this family-run specialist wine cellar that serves excellent Prosecco at the stand-up bar. Simple nibbles to accompany the wine include mortadella sausage and panini rolls filled with sopressa , a local salami.
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