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Beer on tap, toasted sandwiches and a cosy atmosphere, as well as seating outside in summer, attracts a loyal crowd of students. Generally crowded.

The construction of this Rococo church was decreed by Empress Maria Theresa in 1755, and her favourite architect Nikolaus Pacassi (1716–90) completed the building in 1763. The plain, cubic structure with a red tiled roof and a green cupola was the church to the nearby military hospital. The interior is decorated with elaborate stucco work and behind the high altar is the painting Christ on the Crucifix by Peter Strudel, the founder of Vienna’s first art school. The church has been the Polish national church in Vienna since 1897.

The former gas storage towers from 1899 were converted into apartments in 2001.

These four round-shaped industrial buildings were constructed in 1899 to store gas. No longer needed for their original purpose, four renowned architects (Coop Himmelblau, Jean Nouvel, Manfred Wehdorn and Wilhelm Holzbauer) converted the massive buildings in 2001 into a shopping centre, an events’ hall, 615 apartments and a students’ hall of residence. Around 70 shops offer everything from fashion to electronic goods – the separate Gasometer buildings are connected by glazed corridors (see p51).

Probably Vienna’s last simply styled gasthaus. Large portions of classic Viennese food served in beautiful oak-panelled surroundings. Very popular with the locals.

A very authentic Viennese restaurant with good Austrian cuisine.

Stuffed peppers are another remnant of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy, when Vienna was the melting pot of many nationalities and cultures. Originally from the Balkans, the dish quickly became accepted by the Viennese and, just like Gulasch , it can now be found in restaurants throughout the city. Green peppers are stuffed with a mixture of minced meat and rice and are usually served with a tomato sauce and potatoes.

Any eatery, be it a little inn or a luxury restaurant, will serve mixed salads to accompany meat dishes. They usually consist of potatoes, lettuce, carrots and tomatoes, arranged side by side.

One of Vienna’s largest department stores, Gerngross’s goods range from designer clothing to middle-of-the-range labels, from fashion accessories to home decor and furniture. There is a sushi restaurant and a café on the top floor, both offering an excellent view over the bustling shopping street down below (see p110).

Sparkling water mixed with table wine is an all-time favourite in Austria, particularly in summer.