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In the 18th century many graveyards were closed down as plague epidemics spread quickly in the densely populated cities. Cemeteries were relocated beneath city churches, and bones were disinterred and reburied in the crypts. The catacombs underneath Stephansdom were constructed after Emperor Karl VI issued a decree to close the cathedral’s graveyard in 1732. Today it is hard to image that the Stephansplatz was once crammed with gravestones (see p9).

Excellent draught and bottled beer and hearty snacks, such as huge toasted sandwiches. There’s seating underneath the large chestnut trees in summer. Relaxing atmosphere.

This striking Art Nouveau double staircase which winds its way down from Strudlhofgasse to Liechtensteinstrasse was designed by Theodor Jäger in 1910. Two fountains, chandeliers and various ramps create a graceful impression. It became famous in 1951 when the Austrian writer Heimito von Doderer published a novel named after the stairway.

For a few weeks in autumn fermenting grape juice is available. Although it tastes sweet, it is alcoholic and quite powerful.

There are many outdoor as well as indoor pools, and the Danube tributaries are always free to use.

Another traditional Viennese restaurant that serves hearty national and international dishes.

Meat is essential to Viennese cuisine, and beef has played an important role throughout the centuries. The favourite among the many varieties is boiled rump, usually served with Rösti (fried grated potatoes) and apple and horseradish sauce. Emperor Franz Joseph allegedly ate Tafelspitz every day.

Opened in 1918, the Vienna Museum of Technology houses more than 80,000 exhibits from the world of technology, energy and heavy industry. The collections include many rarities by Austrian inventors, among them the world’s first turbine by Viktor Kaplan (1919) and the first functioning sewing machine by Josef Madersberger (1814).

A special adventure area here geared towards children aged three to six years old (although older children enjoy it too) allows young visitors to experience the natural sciences with hands-on displays. Children are particularly invited to take part in and carry out various technological experiments. Special workshops in the museum’s kindergarten take place between 1 and 6pm on Tuesdays, Fridays and Saturdays as well as from 10am to 6pm on Sundays; these are free of charge. This is a great museum for inquisitive little minds (see p42).

Austrian aces Thomas Muster and Barbara Schett ensure plenty of enthusiasm for tennis at the city’s courts.