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A meal here is a grand experience in the Baroque setting of a 400-year-old palace. Live piano music from 7pm onwards.

The former summer residence of the 17th-century war hero Prince Eugen is a splendid Baroque palace with vast French gardens, and is now home to the Austrian National Gallery. It houses world-famous paintings by Austrian artists, including Gustav Klimt’s Art Nouveau work The Kiss (see pp22–5).

The river that runs around the edge of the city centre is not the actual Danube, but one of its many arms, the Danube Canal. Along the promenade, popular with walkers, cyclists and in-line skaters, there is a lively pub and restaurant scene.

The theatre is Vienna’s best known musical stage for both international and national productions (see p111).

Emanuel Schikander, a friend of Mozart, had this theatre built between 1798 and 1801 but only one year after its grand opening he went bankrupt and sold the building. The theatre has had a colourful history, changing owners many times, but saw great historic moments with the premiere of Beethoven’s Fidelio in 1805 and Johann Strauss’s operetta Die Fledermaus in 1874. The theatre closed down in 1938 but after World War II it staged state opera performances while the damaged Staatsoper was being repaired. Today it is owned by the City of Vienna and mainly used as a stage for musicals and occasional operas.

Built in 1788 following the design of Josef Kornhäusel, the theatre was entirely rebuilt in 1822 and reopened with a musical piece by Beethoven, composed for the occasion. It is still very popular today, specializing in classical plays by Austrian writers.

Austrian cuisine with Asian and Italian influences. It is usually crowded after performances at the Theater an der Wien next door.

On the site of this élite school stood an imperial summer palace, until it was destroyed by Turkish troops in 1683. On its ruins the Italian architect Lodovico Burnacini built the Theresianum (1687–90). The long building with a sober façade was named after Empress Maria Theresa, who installed an educational institute here for young nobility. Today it is a private school and a diplomatic academy.

The best address for top of the range fountain pens, as well as diaries and organizers. A range of handmade papers as well as beautifully printed wrapping papers are also on sale.